Showing posts with label vintage wardrobe basics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vintage wardrobe basics. Show all posts

February 18, 2015

Seven vintage garments it might surprise you to learn that I don't own


There are certain items that are the bread and butter of a vintage wardrobe, especially for those who wear 1930s, 1940s, and/or 1950s styles. We know them well - pencil skirts, shirtwaist dresses, cardigans, high waisted repro jeans, and pearl (not to mention Bakelite!) jewelry, for example - and love them to bits (of course those who favour other eras have their own batch of staple styles as well, too, these are just some that tend to be especially common for mid-century fashion fans). They're must-have cornerstones of our closet and pieces that we rarely go more than a few days without sporting at least one of (see this post from 2013 for 15 of my vintage fashion essentials).

Beyond these most fundamental of vintage wardrobe ingredients however, there is still fairly large number of items that it is typically assumed most vintage (and/or rockabilly) wearers will own and when it surfaces that you might not actually have one or more such pieces, the response, I've found, is usually something along the lines, "Seriously? Not even one?!".

Nope, not even one. Sometimes this is because I haven't yet struck upon the right one, at the right price, or perhaps I used to own one, but it has bit the dust and I'm between said items for the time being. In other instances, a certain garment or accessory - no matter how much I may adore and appreciation - might simply look disastrous on me and as such I've made a conscious choice to exclude said item from my daily ensembles (learning about and working around styles that do not do you the tiniest of favours is an extremely important part of having an amazing vintage wardrobe that brings you joy, and is a topic I covered in much further depth in this post last year).

In others still, I may not have felt a longing to own such a piece. Even within the walls of our vintage wardrobes, our personal tastes are apt to change an evolve a little, and though it's rarely discussed, there are even trends that emerge within our circle that can cause one to suddenly feel like they want to rush out and purchase a garment or accessory that they had never previously felt pulled towards. By the same token, you may discover an item on your own that you had never felt drawn to before, but suddenly feel as though there is a gapping hole in your closet without.

Add to that the fact that for most of us, our wardrobes are continuous works in progress, especially if you're relatively new to sporting vintage, and it stands to reason that almost no one will have an example of every possible type of relatively common vintage garment to hand. You might need a second house just to store your clothes and accessories in if you did! (Mmmm, such an appealing thought...What's that? Sorry, got lost in a vintage wardrobe daydream for a second. :D)

I madly adore clothing, especially that of a vintage, reproduction or vintage appropriate nature, and take great pleasure in growing my wardrobe, making the most of my modest fashion dollars (be sure to see this post for some great tips on that front), and continually expanding the amount of variety on my hangers.

At this point in time, there is objectively not many areas of my vintage wardrobe that are particularly lacking. It would be lovely to own more of some types of garments and accessories of course, but I won't run the risk of finding myself clothing-less any time soon and I'm very grateful for that fact. It took me many years, a lot of dedicated searching, and no shortage of patience to reach this point and to have the highly currated vintage filled closet that I do.

Yet, chalked full though it may be (if we're talking my actual closet that is, which is about the size of a matchbox; great for creating disciplined wardrobe editing, not so fabulous for having room to expand your clothing collection!), there are certainly some vintage items that I don't yet own, or which for the reasons touched on above, I've opted not to purchase. I should mention that I'm talking about items from, or that look the part of, the 1940s and 50s, as these are the decades I sport most frequently and thus have centered my wardrobe around. Obviously, as I don't usually wear 1920s, 30s, 60s, or 70s styles, there will be many pieces from those eras that are not accounted for in my closet.

I thought you guys might be interested to know what some of the pieces that fall into that camp are, so without further ado, may I present a list of seven different vintage garments and accessories that I do not currently own (and the reasons why such is the case).



1. 49er Jacket





A truly iconic mid-century garment (that is still in production to this day), the Pendleton 49er jacket (so called because the women's version first debuted in 1949) sprang to life in the wake of WW2, when many women working in the war effort sported oversized plaid shirts that they borrowed from the closets of the men in their life (or just went out and bought for themselves to begin with). Made of warm, high quality wool and produced in scores of different plaid colour combos over the years, the 49er remains a firm favourite amongst vintage fashionistas because it's both cozy and does a great job of providing you with a mid-century casual jacket that can be worn just about anywhere.

Visually, I adore 49ers to no end, however as I'm very allergic to wool (wearing it against my skin usually causes me to bust out in hives in a matter of minutes), I've sadly had to stay at arm's length from these checkered classics. One day, if possible, I would love to commission a seamstress to make me a 49er style jacket out of a non-wool plaid fabric so that I could finally sport this style of vintage garment, too. Until then, I will continue to just make due with my lovely assortment of plaid shirts.



2. Fedora hat




Though by far a style that is most commonly associated with gents, long before they came back into vogue with hipsters and trendy gals in recent years, fedoras had their place in the hearts and wardrobes of many a chic woman in the 1930s and 40s. This sprang in part from their popularity with stars such as Marlene Dietrich (pictured above) and Katharine Hepburn, but also from a general trend towards, what at the time were called "mannish styles" that was widespread in the fashion world at the time.

My own lack of a vintage ladies fedora stems simply for the fact that I've yet to encounter any in person that didn't cost the moon and haven't tried my luck with sourcing one online. The older I get, the more this style of hat appeals to me though, so I could certainly see myself doing so in the not too distant future.



3. Genuine 1940s shoes





At the risk of sounding like a broken record to those who have been longtime readers of my blog, I have somewhat hard to fit feet (they have unusually high arches, are slightly uneven sized, and often fall between a regular and wide width in many brands), which just happen to a modern size 8 (occasionally I can squeeze into a 7.5, or conversely, need to go up half a size to 8.5 - all this despite the fact that visually, it looks like I'm about a 6.5). This combo, paired further with the fact that there are no vintage clothing stores in town, means that finding genuine 1940s (or 1950s) shoes is a challenge (I use the word "genuine" here to distinguish such shoes from more modern footwear that either looks the 40s part on purpose, as in the case of vintage reproduction shoes, or simply have vintage appropriate styling to them).

I know from past experience (with modern and repro styles) that ordering shoes online does usually not end favorably for me, so I've held off on investing in a pair of genuine 1940s shoes until I come across some in person that fit both my feet and ideally my budget, too. With mid-century footwear becoming harder and harder to find with each passing year, I know that it might be a bit of tall order, but I always like to be optimistic and like to believe I'll slip my tootsies into a pair of real, honest to goodness forties shoes one of these days!



4. Vintage swimsuit





Now, to be fair, I don't have a modern one at present either. Believe me when I say that the way my body looks in the type of clothes I wear and how it appears in something as unforgiving as a bathing suit are two vastly different things. Though I've had vintage swimsuits at various points in time, I rarely kept them long (always selling or giving them away to friends) because I'd yet to find one that fits me just right.

Couple this with the fact that some of my medical conditions keep me from being able to do much swimming (I pay dearly for weeks afterwards if I do - a mistake I only had to make once to realize that it's best for me to stay curled on the beach come summer) and that I don't like wearing overly revealing clothing to begin with, and it's not all that big of a surprise that I don't have a swimsuit.

That said, it is a practical garment, even if it's not a terribly flattering one on me, so chances are I'll pick up a vintage or repro swimsuit sometime in the coming months before summer triumphantly returns again.



5. Swing coat





As much as I like the elegant, classic shape of swing coats (especially those that are quite long), they aren't usually terribly kind to my short, curvy figure in the slightest. Princess coats however are whole 'nother matter! Their tailored lines and nipped waist seem to be custom made for my body body, so when Old Man Winter comes calling each year, I reach for vintage princess coats without fail.

I'm not entirely excluding the possibility of owning a swing coat, and I have always wanted a hip length "teddy bear fur" sandy caramel hued one, but at present I'm more than content with my pretty princess coats and suspect they'll always be the number one choice in my books when it comes to old school outerwear (even my vintage raincoat has princess lines to it :)).



6. Playsuit




Playsuits are super cute, super practical, and super fun, and yet, the fact that they often involve baring your knees, upper arms, and/or midriff (not three of my favourite parts of my body in the slightest!) means I approach these charming summer garments with great caution. I admire them on other people, praise their practicality, and swoon over old school examples of them, but for now my closet is woefully playsuit-less until I find one that lets me remain fairly covered up, but still have the versatility that comes with mix-and-match summertime separates of the sort that only playsuits deliver.



7. Penny loafers




I thought I'd finally crossed this vintage fashion staple off of my list last spring when I purchased a pair in near pristine condition at a yard sale for $5.00. Once I got home and attempted to get my footies into them however, they turned out to be too narrow to really even get on at all. *Sigh* The hunt will continue though, as I love the preppy meets casual meets collegiate look of classic penny loafers and would absolute welcome the chance to expand my shoe wardrobe with a pair at long, long last!



{To learn more about a specific image, please click on it to be taken to its respective source.}



♥ ♥ ♥



Naturally, this is not an exhaustive list of all the possible vintage pieces I could, but do not precisely, own from the decades I hold nearest and dearest to my heart. Instead I opted to focus on pieces that are fairly common amongst the marvelous vintage fashionistas in our spheres and yet are no where to be seen in my dresser drawers or in my vintage outfit blog posts.

As time goes on, I would love to add those that do work for my body type (and sensitive skin!) to my wardrobe, just as would those that still remain (and others that have since been added to) my vintage fashion wishlist. Part of the greatest thrill of wearing vintage for me has always been the hunt, and the actual moment of discovery itself, so I don't usually mind it when there are items, be they commonplace, obscure or anywhere in between, that I'm able to search the web and offline world alike for – no matter how long it takes to find a winner!

What, my sweet dears, are some seemingly commonplace vintage items that most folks own, but which you don't currently have a single one of? Are any of them the same as the entries on my list?

It will be interesting to see, looking back in say, five or ten years, how many (again, of the ones I am hankering for) of these pieces have joined the ranks in my closet, and how many are still as elusive as the likelihood of unearthing a 1950s Dior suit at a thrift store. Only time, and perhaps a future follow-up post in a few years will tell!

November 14, 2013

You asked: How I put my vintage outfits together

Last month we took a gander at the process behind how Tony and I do our photo shoots for the blog, and today I'm delighted to launch into a related topic, which I've been asked about numerous times, including in a comment by the thoroughly lovely (and super talented) Anthea from Sewing ♥ Vintage ♥ Knitting on this post, and that is...how do I put my vintage outfits together.

On the surface, much as with the question of how we take photos, the answer to this query seems like the kind of thing I could answer in a mere sentence or two, but as with so much in life, a bit of thought quickly reveals that there is, in fact, more to the process than what lurks on the surface and I'm happy to share what goes into the vintage looks you see here each week with all of you.

To begin with, like many people in our wonderful sphere, I have certain decades - namely the 1940s and 50s - that I most commonly dress in the styles of. These are the decades that not only fill my heart with immeasurable joy, but which (typically speaking) work best for my body type (short and curvy like a mountain pass). I have been endlessly smitten with the fashions of these two decades since I was the youngest of lasses, and knew in my heart of hearts as a child that I would grow up and wear the styles of this twenty year span, ages before I'd ever found out that other people were into vintage fashion, too.

This isn't, of course, to say that I don't enjoy fashions from other decades (which, on occasion, I may also wear an outfit from as well), it's just that this is my favourite era from a sartorial standpoint and thus I've centered the bulk of my wardrobe around this timeframe. As a result, most of the pieces on the hangers in my closet and the drawers in my dresser either hail from, or are designed to look as though they could have easily come from, the 1940s and 50s.

I mention this point because I think that in order to help facilitate the process of easily putting together outfits you love on a regular basis, it helps a great deal if you know which decade - or decades - you adore and want to dress from (a point which I discussed in more detail here), in order to build up a wardrobe of pieces that compliment one another in the sense that they are all from (or look the part of being from) the same era.

On top of knowing which decades work best for me, I'm also quick to acknowledge the fact that I'm the type of gal who loves a variety of different styles - a point I explored at length back in 2012 in the post How Many Personalities Does Your Wardrobe Have?, in which I highlighted some of the particular styles (such as ultra girly-girl and preppy) that set my heart aflutter year after year without fail.

Knowing then, which decades and styles I adore most, I've worked diligently throughout my adult life to put together a wardrobe the is rich in these kinds of pieces. While not every single garment in my closet is from (or made to look as though it could be) the 1940s and 50s, the vast majority are. Like many of us, my wardrobe is an enjoyable blend of genuine vintage, vintage appropriate, and vintage reproduction pieces, a good number of which I've tried to coordinate fairly well with one another.

This isn't to say that my closet looks like a super matchy-matchy capsule collection, it certainly doesn't (my tastes are far too eclectic for that to ever happen), but there is a general sense of cohesiveness that flows throughout each skirt, sock, bead and beret, and which I believe goes a long way towards my ability to put together outfits I love to wear with a good deal of ease.

Each of us is a different point in terms of how complete or incomplete our respective wardrobe is, and like most folks, there are still some gaps in mine (vintage trousers, I'm looking at you!), but I do have most of my bases - and basics - covered, which also aids in cutting down on the dreaded "I have nothing to wear" feeling that we've all been hit with many a time as we stood in front our well stocked closets.

Speaking of closets, mine is very small (you can technically walk into it, but you'll only get to take about five steps before you hit the back wall) and every last millimeter of space has been put to use (the same goes for all of my dresser drawers), but (humbly) very well organized. I sort all of my garments by type (skirts, dresses, short sleeved blouses, long sleeved blouses, cardigans, jeans, etc) and then further by colour, so that it looks like there are numerous rainbows bursting forth on the racks in there. Ditto for anything houses in a drawer or under-the-bed plastic garment storage container, as well as my accessories (save for brooches, which are arranged by subject matter).

As you may be picking up on, I'm big on creating an efficient, fun workflow when it comes to my wardrobe because I find that having a place for everything and everything in its place means that I don't have to waste time hunting for an item I need when I'm getting dressed. I can throw open the closet door, and know that my beige skirt is where its supposed to be and that I'll find a blue sweater sandwiched between the green and purple ones. Easy-peasy. No undo hunting, no "hmmm, do I actually own a red belt?" moments, and no time lost picking out the pieces I want in a flash.

But Jess, I hear you saying, how to you go about deciding what to partner with what - and how do you coordinate all of it? I'm glad you, like Anthea, asked, and am getting to that point right this very moment.

Colour. Yep, good old, find it nearly everywhere, colour is the secret behind how I put my vintage outfits together. I love colour with all my might. This doesn't necessarily mean that I go about looking as flashy as Carmen Miranda 24/7, but more often than not, I wear multiple colours in each ensemble I don and find that doing so can really help a look appear well put together.

I've always been smitten with colour - its power when it comes to influencing our mood or stirring up certain memories or associations is fascinating, and the ways in which different hues can be married together in the same look is a never-ending source of inspiration for me. There isn't a single colour I don't like at least a few shades of, and in the case of most garments and accessories, I've intentionally worked hard at trying to create a broad spectrum of different coloured pieces so that I can continually view my wardrobe as an artist's palette.

Much as a painter reaches for certain colours that he or she loves time and time again, so too do I have beloved favourite shades, but I try not to pigeonhole myself too much, because doing so can quickly lead to (overly frequent) outfit repetition and boredom.

Much as my closet itself is far from huge, I do not have a massive wardrobe, but because it's filled with so many different colours - partnered with some great basics like pencil skirts, shirtwaist dresses, blazers, gloves, hats and shoes in timeless neutrals - it gives the appearance of being larger than it is, because I can continually come up with so many fun new combinations of differently hued garments.

There's an old expression that typically goes along the lines of "I put my pants on one leg at a time, just like everyone else", and this is certainly true for me too, but I don't necessarily begin getting dressed with the same garment in mind each day. Far from it actually. I constantly start with different pieces and accessories when it comes to putting together a look.

I've kicked off outfits with something as small as a pair of earrings or a pair of tights – doesn’t always have to begin with the largest item they’re going to sport. I'm typically struck by a certain mood each day, as we all are, and this plays into what I want to wear for a given day, as does where I might be going/what I'll be doing throughout the course of said day. Once I know those things, I usually feel pulled towards one or more items in my wardrobe, and build up from there.

I'll let you in on another secret behind how I compose my outfits: the rule of thirds. Yes, that very same rule of thirds which you may be familiar with if you work in (or have an interest in) areas such as photography, art, or graphic design. Though I don't interpret the concept as literally in my wardrobe as I would if I was taking a photograph, I do try to keep portion in mind when I'm getting dressed.




This shines through in two main ways. For starters it means that I (often) like to balance out the proportions of the colours that I use. Commonly I start with one, two or three base colours (for example, in the outfit above, I began with dark purple and black), and then inject one or more colours into my look via my accessories or perhaps another garment, such as a cardigan or scarf, which plays a supporting role, but doesn't steal the show, so to speak. In the case of this particular outfit, grey (gloves and tights) were the supporting colour. Because grey both a natural and very close to black on the colour wheel, it compliments this ensemble, without seeming garish or out of place.

The second way in which proportion comes into play for me is that I like to keep the general scope of my outfits well balanced in terms of how the pieces fit. For example, I'm not overly keen on baggy or super tight fitting clothing generally speaking, and if I do wear a garment that falls into either camp, I will almost always keep the rest of my outfit on the opposite side of things (for example, a slouchy shirt with form fitting capri pants or a curve hugging pencil skirt). On a 5'2" frame like mine, this is especially important, so as to not give the illusion of knocking further inches off of my height.

Speaking of frames, mine is far from perfect, but it's the only one I've got and I've learned from trial and error over the years, that some things work a whole lot better for it than others. By and large, I've tried to filter out those that don't work (no matter how much I may love them in principle) and to fill my closet with garments that I feel comfortable and confident in when I slip them on (here again, doing so helps speed up the process of getting dressed, because it usually means you're less likely to have to try on three or four - or more - similar items to find one that, if you're lucky, you're satisfied with).

Once colour and portion have been sorted, it's time for the finishing touches - these are not to be taken lightly, they can make or break a look, and have the potential to elevate it from merely nice to seriously specular. I love accessories - they're the delicious cherries on just about every ensemble I don, and at times, may even (intentionally) be the main dish themselves.

You've probably heard the expression before that you should always take off one accessory before you leave the house. While this can ring true sometimes, generally speaking, I don't pay it much heed at all. If one dresses with purpose and care, you'll likely know when enough is enough, so to speak, while putting your outfit together; there's no need to risk disrupting the balance you're created at the very last minute.

The types and colours of accessories you opt for will depend a lot on what your focal garments (i.e., skirts, blouses, sweaters, dresses) are and where you'll be going that day. Some people like to keep theirs on the understated side of things - perhaps a classic pair of gloves and a sophisticated brooch or a timeless strand of cream pearls. Others might add on some bangle bracelets, a vintage scarf on their head or some eye-catching earrings, and others still feel nearly naked if they're not decked out in accessories from head to bejeweled toe. There's rarely a right or wrong here, it's simply a matter of how many accessories you enjoy wearing at any given time.




Personally, I tend to opt for a medium number, and am never without at least a couple (say, earrings and a few bangles or a brooch and gloves). As a general rule, if the colours (and/or patterns) of your outfit are bold, loud or eye-catching, you'll want to tone down the volume on your accessories (stick with smaller pieces in supporting, rather than competing or contrasting colours. Matching like to like is also a good approach here, as in the case of the vividly hued outfit pictured above.

On the one hand this outfit might seem a little plain if each piece was examined separately, but the primary colours, small pattern of the shirt, and variety of hues at work here, help it add up to cohesive, youthful, lovely (if I may say so myself) ensemble that is anything but boring. Here, I started with a navy blue pencil skirt, red patterned shirt (the shirt has tiny cherries on it), and green cardigan (as there is a little bit of green in the shirt's pattern).

Three bold colours are often plenty, so instead of introducing more, I kept my accessories in the same palette. Red wrist length gloves, a red handbag, red and white shoes, a small red cherry brooch, a simple white headband (there's also white in the shirt), and bangles in colours from the main outfit creates a harmonious flow and a well put together over all look.

Opting for three key colours in an outfit is an approach I take often (I also use it in my crafting, such as when I'm making scrapbook pages, cards or jewelry) and which I highly recommend to one and all as well.

It often helps to start with one or two neutrals (such as black, brown, grey, beige, taupe, navy blue, denim, cream or white) so as to ground the look, then pick any two (or more) colours that you feel partner well both with that neutral and with each other. Of course it's possible to put together an outfit using fewer or more colours, but three is a really good starting place and one that I begin with more days than not.




Let's take a look at another outfit (this was actually the one that Anthea commented on with her question, so it seems extra fitting to include it in this post). At first glance, what jumps out at you most in this photo? Is it the energetic, charming floral print dress with its rainbow of hues? The lilac belt, the red handbag, the stack of different coloured bangle bracelets, the red shrug, or something else? Because the pattern on this dress was eye-catching, I knew that I was going to want to stick to solid coloured accessories in colours that pulled directly from the frock itself.

Having a plethora to pull from, I did just that, but created a second key focal point, the colour red. It appears in the pattern, then says hello again via the shrug, purse, hair flowers and one of the bangles. White, the background colour of the dress was also repeated here via the gloves and shoes, to help tone down the punchy palette a little, but still keep the look fresh and summery, as it should be given the warm, sunny day it was worn on. There are a lot of colours at work here, but none of them are dominating the show completely. They flow well together and work in harmony to create a look that, while bright, is not overpowering.

What about the opposite side of the spectrum, I hear you saying, what about outfits that are more low key and toned down? You bet - I love colour, but I don't go as "all out" with it everyday as in the case of the last outfit by any means, but that doesn't mean that you'll see me in head to toe black very often either. Even when my outfit is on the less vibrant side of things, I'll still usually include at least a couple of different colours, as well as visual interest via the types of fabrics I choice (think of the sheen of velvet or the nubby landscape of tweed, for example, and how they compare to a flatter material such as linen or cotton).

As a whole, whether you enjoy bright, medium, or soft shades (or tend to live in neutrals), colour is a pivotal and highly important factor in the success of an outfit. Of course a LBD or classic solid coloured suit can be fantastic unto itself, but even there, you'll likely find your look comes more alive if you include a little colour via your accessories. It can be as simple as silver or gold jewelry or as a elaborate as a vintage hat with seven different colours on it.




Working in a similar tonal range (for example, in the outfit above, the three key colours are all from the same tonal family), aiming for complimentary colours, or contrasts that still look harmonious are all great ways to put together a look - no matter your favourite decades or styles - that is bound to make you smile when see your own reflection.

Keep the overall time period you're dressing from in mind, too (though, of course, there's nothing wrong with mixing decades/styles in the same outfit), as well as the portions (and fit) of your garments, and you'll be well on the road to knocking out ensemble after ensemble that you absolutely love.

There are few greater compliments to a person's style than being asked how you put together your outfits, and I want to take a moment to sincerely thank Anthea for her question, as well as the other folks who have said similar things to me over the years. I dress from the heart in a way that brings me joy. I follow certain general guidelines of style, but am not afraid to break the rules. I honour the decades I love, but never hesitate to put my own spin on them, and above all else, I never wear anything that I don't, at least in the moment, completely love.

I encourage you to do the same - to experiment, embrace colour, and put together the sort of outfits you love seeing on others yourself. There's no magic or mystery to it, just a little bravery, a well thought out wardrobe, and a handful or two of great accessories - plus your own unique fashion sense, which, after all, is ultimately what is most likely to inspire someone else to take a style cue from you when they see how wonderfully you're dressed.

October 20, 2013

15 of my must-have vintage fashion essentials (and one of my top tips for creating a wardrobe you love)

A little over two months ago, when we were still delightfully immersed in the sweltering thick of summer, I received a comment on August's edition of Flickr Favourites in which Uila from the blog The Crazy Ragdoll Cat Lady asked the following:

"Hey doll. I was wondering if you could make a post on the staple pieces that you own on your vintage reproduction wardrobe. And make a list of 25 or 30 (I think 10 can not cover it in the least) vintage reproduction items that are must haves in a vintage wardrobe. You can even break it down to essentials and "Every-vintage-gal-needs-it-because-it-is-too-pretty-to-resist", or something."


Like many vintage fashion fans, my wardrobe is not comprised strictly of genuine vintage, vintage reproduction, or vintage appropriate garments, it's a lovingly curated blend of all three, and my list of must-have items is strikingly similar no matter which of the trio I'm shopping for because my tastes remain essentially the same no matter what kind of vintage or vintage style clothing I'm sporting.

In reflecting on Uila's question, I was instantly reminded of a terrific post that Janey from Atomic Redhead wrote a few months back in which she highlighted 15 Vintage Essentials that are integral in her books to creating a great yesteryear wardrobe (all of which I second completely, and some of whom will be appearing here in today's post, too).
 
Though Uila asked for a list of 25 or 30 items, and I could certainly put together such a lengthy list, I wanted this post to loudly echo my own wardrobe - comprised as it is of vintage, repro, and vintage appropriate pieces - and the honest to goodness truth is that I don't wear (or own) a massive big number of different types of garments myself, so following in Janey’s (super stylish!) footsteps seemed like a good jumping off point.

But Jess, I hear you say, I've seen you wear oodles of different outfits here! That you have, my dears, but if you break each look apart, you will find that at their core, they are comprised, by and large, of a handful of different garments, many of which I own several versions of.

Like most people, it took some trial and error as I worked my way through my teen years and on into adulthood to find out what types of clothing (and accessories) did and did not work well on my (short, curvy) body. There are some styles that even though I love in principle, I know they look like absolute train wrecks on me (mandarin collars, most v-necks, shorts, socks worn with skirts instead of going barefoot or sporting hose, and cloche hats, for example) and so I have either banished them from my wardrobe entirely, or proceed with extreme caution when wearing one of these risky pieces.

In weeding out the bad (again, for my body type) however, I quickly discovered not only the good, but the great, and in trying to make the best of my figure (it, like most peoples', has its own strengths and weaknesses) have attempted to focus the bulk of my wardrobe on these kinds of pieces, fifteen of which I'm going to share with you here today by way of black and white vintage images depicting each of them.


 photo 15ofmymust-havevintagefashionessentialsChronicallyVintagepostheadergraphic_zps3d856237.png

 
{A-line skirts}





{Defined as a skirt that fitted at the hips and then gradually widens/flares out towards the hem, thus resembling the shape of the letter A, such skirts are one of the most universally flatting and classic styles to come of out the mid-twentieth century (where they were especially popular during the 1940s). Hem lengths vary, with some barely skimming the bottom of the knee and others reaching down towards the ankle. A mid-calf length is my personal favourite, especially for during daytime hours.

I love full 50s circle skirts with a burning passion, and certainly own my fair share, but the honest-to-goodness truth is that a-line are typically more figure flattering on me, so I've made sure to include several in my wardrobe. This style of skirt is still widely made today and though it may take a little hunting to find vintage appropriate versions, they can definitely out there - as our pencil skirts, another list entry we'll chat more about later on here.}


 

{Classic style purses}



{Though my handbag wardrobe isn't massive by any stretch of the wardrobe, I have worked hard over the years to find styles with little to no external metal hardware on them (lest it contains nickel, which I'm super allergic to), and which are either genuine vintage or convincing look the part. The latter can be hard to come by in today's world of huge, hardware laden bags, so more often than not, I shop for styles from the 1930s-1980s.

I love styles that are neither too big, nor too small, and which I can successfully fit my wallet, keys, cell phone, lipstick, compact, tissues or a hankie, a pen, and a couple of other small essential items into without having it bursting at the seems or unable to stay closed. In terms of styles, I'm open to just about anything, but especially love classic bucket, clasp top, clutch, and 40s style shoulder bags in particular.}



{Cocktail dresses}



{A cocktail dress that fits you well is as enjoyable to wear as its namesake drink is to enjoy as the day winds down. Variety abounds here, though I'm especially partial to wiggle and fitted sheath styles, perhaps in a standout fabric such as lace, sharkskin, satin or velvet to really ensure all who see it know that it's not the same kind of frock I would have been sporting at noon while running errands around town. Cocktail dresses practically beg to be worn with one's favourite vintage bling, from shimmery strands of crystals to oversized gold brooches, rhinestones earrings to Bakelite dress clips and everything in between, so have a blast while accessorizing for an evening on the town or spent entertaining at home.}


 


{Denim capri or pedal pusher pants}




{I don't have the kind of figure that takes kindly to super skin tight pants, especially in thin fabrics, however, come summer, I make a mad dash for my beloved denim capris (seen in posts such as this). They’re worlds more forgiving than most fabrics for this kind of garment, are every bit as versatile as full length jeans, and channel a great 1950s/early 60s vibe that can veer anywhere from Jayne Mansfield-esque sultry to Audrey Hepburn sweet, depending on how you style the rest of your ensemble.}


 


{Gloves}




{If you've been following my blog for any amount of time, chances are you already know I'm wild about vintage gloves. My collection is a delightfully fun rainbow of all kinds of pairs - long, short, in between, sheer, suede, nylon, cotton, embroidered, the list goes on and one - I adore them all! Gloves were once one of the hallmarks of a well dressed woman's wardrobe and that's a philosophy I still embrace, so gloves are a big must for me all year long.}


{Hats}



{Another vintage fashion accoutrement that I'm endlessly crazy about is hats. Much like gloves they may no longer be a mainstay in most modern wardrobes, but I utterly and completely adore them (you can read lots more about said love in this interview post), as do many vintage wearing folks do and they are one of the areas of my wardrobe that really seems to grow in leaps and bounds (I've bought at least seven hats so far this year alone!).

There is a vintage hat out there for almost every setting, outfit, style type, and season, and though (as with nearly all facets of vintage fashion) they continue to rise in price as time goes on, I speak from plenty of experience when I say that beautiful vintage hats can still be had, online and off, for under $50 - and in some case even under $25. If you love hats, wear them with gusto and joy - they are awesome works of art that you're able to take with you wherever you go and can ad such immense interest to any ensemble.}


 

{Lightweight knits}



{Way back in 2009, when Chronically Vintage was just a wee little newborn, I wrote a post devoted to my love of lightweight knits, and in the four plus years since then, my passion for this type of garment has only continued to grow. Just how many cardigans to I have...well, I haven't counted in a few months, but I know the total now comes in at over 35 (including knit shrugs), and I probably have about 12-15 light weight pullover sweaters. No matter the season, whether as a layering piece or solo top, lightweight knits are one of the most important foundations of my vintage wardrobe.}


 

{Pearl jewelry}



{There is a reason why we associate some of the most sophisticated women of all time (Grace Kelly, Jackie O, and Queen Elizabeth II, for example, the latter of whom is pictured above wearing a double strand pearl necklace on her wedding day} with classic pearls, they - like these gorgeous little spheres themselves -  they exude a certain timeless elegance that is so profoundly perfect in any decade.

Pearls might not be worn as commonly today as they once were, but I dare you to go into any reputable jewelry store and not find at least a few pearl pieces. It's almost a given that you will, and likewise very probable that these pieces could just as easily be worn today as they would have been fifty, seventy, even a hundred years ago. Pearls are remarkably classic and truly look good on every single woman. It's merely a matter of finding your favourite pearl colours, sizes, and pieces and then putting them to work time and stylish time again from now until eternity.

My understatedly beautiful strand of cultured cream pearls sees more outfit play than any other necklace I own, and I'd be willing to bet, always will. It is, like most classically designed pearl jewelry, simply perfect - a fact women have wisely known for generations.



{Pencil skirts}



{Oh, pencil skirts, captivating, curve hugging, office (and date night!) appropriate, endlessly lovely pencil skirts, how I adore you! Of all the skirt styles around, there is none I reach more often or with greater pleasure than a well fitting pencil skirt. I own at least one in most colours of the rainbow, from lipstick red to navy blue, dusty rose to midnight black and delight in putting them to work in both my 1940s and 1950s ensembles alike. If I could only wear one type of skirt for the rest of time, it would be the perpetually stylish pencil for sure.}



{Princess coats}




{As someone of modest height, relatively slight build, but with plenty of curves to go around, it's all too easy for many styles of winter coats - especially those that hit below the hip, to look like they're swallowing me whole. Swing and boxy styles are the bee's knees on some gals, but rarely do me any favours, so I stick loyally to those with fitted, expertly tailored lines, my absolute favourite of which is the classic (marvelously feminine) princess coat, at least one of which I've owned every winter since I was at eighteen years old.}


 

{Pumps (court shoes)}



{Assuming one is wearing a dress or a skirt (and sometimes even well tailored, dressier slacks), there are exceedingly few vintage outfits where a classic pair of pumps doesn't work like a charm. They can be as plain or as fancy as you like, are available at all manner of price points, are often quite comfortable to walk in (due to their, typically, sensible heel height), and are a true must in my wardrobe. I reach for my brown, black and white pairs with almost the same frequency, and could scarcely imagine getting dressed without all three of them standing by at the ready.}


 

{Seamed stockings}



{Few garments so instantly conjure thoughts of the mid-twentieth century as seamed stockings do, nor will many inject a classic look into your wardrobe with the same kind of lightning fast speed. Whether you opt for genuine vintage or modern replica styles, keep your heels (if wearing styles with Cuban or other types of visible heels on the back of the ankle) and seams straight and you're good to go, anywhere, anyplace, anytime on the old school hosiery front.}


 


{Shirtwaist dresses}




{Equal parts practical and polished, the shirtwaist dress was a true wardrobe staple for many women in decades past and its classic lines, wide spread availability, (commonly) inexpensive price tag, and versatility helped to make it one of the most popular and iconic garments of the 1930s – early 1960s. My own wardrobe is peppered heavily with 1940s, 1950s and 1980s does 40s and 50s shirtwaist dresses, both short and long sleeved, in a wide spectrum of hues, and they get worn with great frequency (in outfits such as this, and this, and don't forget this :)).}

 


{Skirt suits}




{Sophisticated, hard working, and so incredibly becoming, a skirt suit that fits you well is one of the best investments in your wardrobe that you can ever make. Whether you're mad for the streamlined, long lined styles of the 30s, adore the broad shouldered looks of the early 40s, go gaga for the wasp waist, full skirted (Dior inspired) look of the tail end of the decade, or swoon over the curve hugging - or conversely, boxy - styles of the 1950s and 60s, there is a skirt suit out there for every vintage loving lass. Though I do find that it can take a while to unearth one that fits me well - or can be altered to fit properly - when I do, it's like hitting wardrobe pay dirt!}


 


{The right underwear and foundation garments}




{This entry really is a whole post (or series of posts) unto itself, and is one that many vintage bloggers have written at length about before - and for good reason! The right underpinnings are of great importance when it comes to ensuring the proper lines of your vintage ensemble. Most yesteryear garments were not designed to be worn with today's high tech Victoria's Secret offerings, they were created to be partnered with the bras, panties, girdles, slips, garter belts, crinolines (petticoats), and even, in some cases, corsets of their day.

This doesn't necessarily mean that you must buy and wear vintage undergarments, lovely as they are, but rather that you should strive to find modern brands that still, or intentionally (as in the case of sellers such as What Katie Did}, create such garments that are in keeping with classic vintage styles from your decade(s) of choice. I almost always wear vintage or vintage appropriate undergarments beneath my clothes and can tell you, it really does help just about any mid-century garment fit and lay better than if you had modern counterparts on instead.}


{To learn more about a specific image, please click on it to be taken to its respective source.}



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This list is one that works really well for me, my body type and my lifestyle (there are other garments and accessories in my closet of course, too, such as high waisted repro jeans, wedge shoes, bangles, sundresses, shrugs, black tights, and oxfords, but again, these are some of the really key players that you've seen - and will continue to see - time and time again in my vintage outfit posts).

Many of the items on it will likely work for you as well, but do not fret for the tiniest of moments if not all fifteen of them do. By the same token, you do not have to look at this post like a shopping list to be followed to the exact letter. Embrace instead the categories of garments listed here and find the best one (or ones) in each for your own body and lifestyle.

On of the best wardrobe tips I can ever bestow on anybody the world over is is this: don't feel like you need to own a thousand and one different types of garments and accessories, instead find the ones that truly look fantastic on you and then buy multiples of those in different colours, fabrics, slight variations, and seasonal weights.

If you know that at least 90% of what's hanging in your closet and tucked away in your dresser drawers fits you well no matter what items go into creating a certain look, you can honestly get by with far less than 15 different must-haves.

The more you fine tune the selection of items that look the very best on you, the more your own signature style emerges. This style will help define your appearance and guide your future shopping trips. It can can reduce the number of "mistake purchases" you encounter, speed up the daily process of getting dressed, and even help you grown considerably more confident in your own appearance (because you love how you look in your own group of vintage wardrobe essentials).

Don't get overly hung up on whether a piece is vintage, repro, or vintage appropriate. I will never thumb my nose at any of these and highly recommend that you don't either - why limit your wardrobe's maximum potential by excluding one or more of them just because you might think that you have to wear all genuine vintage or all vintage reproduction?

There is a vast world of garments and accessories out there for those of us who love old school fashion to choose from. Avail as much as your budget, closet size, and other circumstances will permit. Each of these three categories offers a huge abundance of items to choose from, and chances are there are many in each that could - and will - work splendidly for your own wardrobe.

Thank you very much, dear Uila, for your wonderfully nice post request. I hope that my reply here has helped to show you that one doesn't necessarily need a wardrobe with 25, 30, 50 or more different types of garments (though of course, it can have that many, if you so desire, don't get me wrong), but instead that one of the best ways to create a killer wardrobe is with different multiples of the kinds of pieces that look best on you and which channel whatever kind of vintage look you're after.

To Uila and one and all, I enthusiastically say have fun, experiment, do a bit of closet editing, and some more shopping, if needed, my dears, and wholeheartedly embrace those items that are absolute must-haves in your own awesome vintage wardrobe!


June 14, 2013

Ten classic menswear pieces that will never go out of style


It's more than a little fair to say that, sartorially speaking, the focus on this blog does generally fall on the female side of the spectrum. This is understandable, given that I'm a gal myself and the vast majority of those who enjoy wearing vintage fashions in this day and age are women as well.

However, there are plenty of members of the opposite sex, too, who also delight in sporting both timelessly classic and distinctly yesteryear styles, and in honour Father's Day on Sunday, I thought that today would be a marvelous time to devote a post to all the chaps out there who fall into this category.

This is a topic I've thought about covering before, but it wasn't until I received a Facebook comment from a fellow in response to my post last February about Ten investment worthy vintage wardrobe items (in which he asked me what some of my suggestions on this topic would be for gents) that I really started to put the gears into motion, so to speak.

Though I will readily admit that I know more about women’s wear, both past and present, I (humbly) have a fair bit of knowledge about menswear too, and greatly enjoy talking about men’s fashion and style, be it yesteryear or current. In the case of the latter, there are - in my opinion - far less dapperly attired fellows out there than there once was. Of course it can be said that elegant style has declined across the board for both men and women (amongst the general public, I mean), and I don't wish to pick on or single out men in any way here.

Quite the contrary, instead of bemoaning trucker hats, baggy pants, and athletic shoes being worn in non-athletic settings, I'm here today instead to focus on ten classic garments and accessories which I feel can go a tremendously long way towards turning any man's wardrobe - be he a fan of vintage styles or not - from merely so-so or nice into show-stoppingly fantastic.

I should preface the following ten items by saying, point blank, that I like a smartly dressed man who looks as though he's ready to run a company, hop on his yacht, or set up a campsite in the woods. I've always been very specific when it comes to my favourite kinds of styles and garments for chaps, and I make no bones about that fact (certainly most men have their favourites when it comes to what they like to see us ladies wearing, too).

That said, while my personal preferences no doubt factor into today's selection, they're by no means the only thing dictating the items of clothing in the spotlight this fine Friday morning. Some of these items are investment pieces there's no doubt about that, but they'll pay you richly in well dressed style dividends in no time at all, I assure you.

And so, without further ado, may I present...




{A wonderful wool (or cashmere and wool) overcoat}




{A sharply tailored three-piece suit}




{Gorgeous silk ties }




{A well cut vest}




{A handsome leather strap watch}




{Well cut dark denim jeans}




{Shawl collar cardigans}




{A vintage or vintage appropriate hat}





{Forzieri shoes}


{A very cool little side note about this particular pair of Forzieri shoes: they're the exact same style Nucky Thompson is wearing in the opening scenes of the intro on the TV show Boardwalk Empire.}


{A great blazer}




{To learn more about a specific image, please click on a photo to be taken to its respective source.}


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I spent a good long while thinking about this topic and brainstorming various possible selections before narrowing my list down to just ten. I wanted to go with pieces that had a vintage look to them, but which could easily be found in today's market and which would appeal to a wide range of guys.

These items needed to exude taste and quality, but not be so off-puttingly expensive that they'd be completely out of reach for those without a trust fund. These are fashions that any chap can - and should - consider adding to his closet. This list is by no means a complete "what's what" of a well stocked wardrobe for a smartly attired gentleman, but it's a great jumping off point for those with a passion for dressing with classic sophistication and an eye towards detail and quality.

While this blog will always veer more towards vintage ladies wear, it's thoroughly fun to shift the focus onto men’s fashion sometimes, especially in honour of Father's Day and well dressed men everywhere this week.

I'm very happy that I received the Facebook comment that I did (thank you, Kevin!), as I loved putting together this post, daydreaming about stocking Tony's closet with some of these amazing pieces, and reflecting on the way that - just as for us gals - there are certain classic wardrobe items that will really and truly never go out of style.

June 2, 2013

Ten warm weather vintage wardrobe staples


For most us in the western hemisphere, the chilly, rain soaked days of early spring are quickly fading faster than a mud puddle in the hot June sun. The sweltering weeks that will hit-mid summer are still a little ways off, but in all likelihood, the prospect of snow - at the very least – is no longer a particularly big threat (says the girl who has experienced snow in June here in Canada before).

You've probably already carefully and lovingly packed away your winter coats, thickest sweaters, heavy duty boots, and woolen scarves (or soon will). In their place come the garments of summer and the prospect of several gorgeous weeks - or months, depending on whereabouts you live - of weather that would cringe at the mere thought of a toque, snow boots or long underwear.

This is the season for linens, cottons, jerseys, silks, and lightweight knits. It's a time to have fun with what you were, dress gorgeously and with gusto, and when one often feels as though their closet can do know wrong.

Be that as it may, it's always wise to take a moment before we really and truly launch headfirst in summer and access the state of your current vintage summer wardrobe. You may have a swimsuit (or ten!), which is a great start, but beyond that, how just how well are you faring? Even if (like me) your warm weather togs outnumber your winter ones, that doesn't mean that there aren't still garments that you're missing or which you could do with more of.

Of course everyone's summer wardrobe needs will vary depending on where they reside, the kind of life they live everyday, how often they travel during the summer, and myriad other factors. Only you know best what you need more of and which summer fashion items you can easily do without.

No matter your lifestyle and location though, there are certain items of clothing that are always fantastic to have on hand for this sunny, glorious time of the year, ten of which I'm going to shine the spotlight on in today's post with the help of a vintage fashion photo or illustration for each one.


{Sundresses}



{The workhorses of many a vintage gal's summer closet, sundresses can be as practical or fanciful as your heart desires. Look for cute novelty prints, pinafore styles with ruffled sleeves, and cute pockets to stash sunny weather essentials in.}




{Capri pants}




{Also known as clam diggers, crop pants, and capris, these cute 3/4 length pants generally hit anywhere from below the knee to mid-calf, and are the perfect answer to those summer days that call for pants (such as a morning of yard saling or an evening of fishing).}



{Sunglasses}


{Equal parts practical and stylish, sunglasses are an absolute must as the sun glares down on us this season. Whether you opt for vintage or vintage appropriate sunnies, make sure that you get a pair (or two!) that fit well, don't allow much sunlight in on the sides, and which are your correct prescription, if you were glasses due to a vision problem. Extra vintage style bonus points if you go with an adorable cat eye pair!}



{Peasant blouses}


{At first glance one might think that the looser cute of many peasant style blouses could be unflattering, however on the majority of figure types, nothing could be further from the truth. Whether sleeve-less (tank top style), short sleeve, 3/4 or even long-sleeves, peasant blouses are an airy, wonderful vintage wardrobe staple that work well with everything from pencil skirts to high-waisted repro jeans.}



{Sun hats}


{Much as in the case of sunglasses, a great wide-brimmed sunhat - in straw or any other summer weight material - a must both for sun protection and also for enhancing just about any summer outfit you can dream up. Whether you opt for an understated classic sandy straw hued number or prefer something more elaborate, the key is to keep your neck and face shaded from the sun, especially if you're venturing out near - or on - the water, or if you plan on being in the direct sunshine.}


{Playsuits}


{These really have to be one the most charming vintage ensembles ever dreamed up, and the array of style variations they come is pretty much limitless. You can go for anything from a wee little pair or bloomer shorts and a crop top, to a swimsuit with a matching skirt and blouse. No matter the degree of coverage you prefer, there's a vintage - or reproduction - summer playsuit out there to suit nearly everyone.}



{Summer weight shawls}


{Certainly one of summer's biggest draws is its sublime sunshine, but on those overcast days or when the sun sinks come dusk, it never hurts to have an extra layer on hand to help you stay nice and toasty. One of the most elegant options to do just that this time of the year is with a lovely vintage - or vintage appropriate - lightweight shawl. You can go with anything from cotton to satin, jersey to crochet yarn, depending on the rest of of your outfit and how much warmth you're expecting your wrap to provide you. I for one really like the look of gauzy crochet and knit shawls for when the sun sets on a hot summer's day. ***Calling all crochet fans*** this image is from a page with a free crochet pattern to make this pretty 1950s shawl.}




{Patio/squaw dresses or sets}


{A beloved wardrobe staple of many a gal during the 1950s and early 60s, patio and squaw dresses both take their styling cues from Southwestern Native cultures, though with a wholly twentieth century twist. Both are available as one-piece dresses or two-piece sets generally consisting of a skirt and matching top. After years of dreaming about owning a 1950s patio dress of my own, I finally bought a cute dusty rose one with silver trim earlier this year that I just know is going to see tons of play this summer!}



{Beach/bathing suit cover up}


{Whether you love to swim, like to dangle your tootsies in the pool, or simply bask in the rays on the sand, it's always a good idea to bring some form of cover-up with you when you go to the beach. Terrycloth is a great option, but don't discount cotton and linen options either, especially if you're packing for a trip and have limited space in your luggage. }



{Breezy a-line and circle skirts}


{If you're anything like me, you love to feel a warm summer breeze waltz across your skirt, ruffling the hem and warming you through and through. On those days when you want a change of pace from sundresses, shorts, or capri pants, a wonderful vintage a-line or circle skirt is just the answer. I often toss a crinoline under my fuller skirts for extra swish, fullness, and style, but if the mercury is really boiling and you can't bear to think of wearing two layers, don't feel obliged to go the pettiskirt route. A sweet a-line skirt and peasant blouse (perhaps partnered with a straw sunhat) is an especially charming warm weather look that channels the 1940s in particular.}


{To learn more about a specific image, please click on it to be taken to its respective source.}


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This is by no means a complete list of every possible summertime vintage garment of course, nor does it encompass each option that various decades offered up (for example, if you're a big 1930s fan, you'll likely want to add in a pair of beach pajamas), but it's a handy jumping off point - and potential shopping list - as you access your warm weather vintage wardrobe both this year and for future summers to come.

Of the ten items highlighted here, I for one am on the hunt for a lovely warm weather shawl, more capri pants, and a great all-purpose vintage straw sunhat. Which are you in need of and what items not mentioned on this list of summer staples are you shopping for as we round bases on our way to greet summer once again?

Though there are elements of the season - like all others - that can be less than ideal, one thing that I do love with a passion about summer is the clothing it allows me to wear. Free from the shackles of heavy overcoats, seven layers of clothes, and utilitarian footwear, my vintage loving Canadian soul is free to reach for the lightest, dreamiest, most enchanting garments in my closet once again.

I may miss my velvets, corduroys, tweeds, and industrial strength knits a touch at some point over the course of the season (say, when Labour Day rolls around). Right now however, I'm far too busy deciding which sundress and pair or sandals to wear this morning to give cold weather clothes another thought for many a week to come! :)