The importance of knowing what styles do not work for you

Nearly any thorough article or book that offers fashion guidance will usually tell readers to determine and then gravitate towards those styles that work best for one's particular body type. This is solid, wise advice for sure, and is often one of the hallmarks that can help make someone look like they clearly have a great eye for style and styling alike. I too suggest that you do the same, but by the same token, it's important to stop and think about the pieces that don't work for you and why such is.

It's easy to slip on a frock in the dressing room, take one quick glance in the mirror, and quickly shake your head as you shimmy out of it at the speed of light. Did you stop though to consider why this piece didn't seem to work for you at first glance? What was it about the item or how your body suddenly appeared in it that didn't sit right with you?

Chances are, if I asked you to tell me five styles right now that almost always look great on you, you can, and that's wonderful. Can you though, tell me just as quickly five that don't do you any favours? Ideally, you want to be able to answer both questions with the same degree of confidence because knowing what not to wear for your body type can be every bit as important as knowing what to wear.



{What are your figure's strengths and weaknesses? Do your wardrobe choices currently flatter your best features and minimize or help disguise those that you'd happily banish in a heartbeat if such were possible? Image source.}


You might be thinking, well, Jess, if I know one, don't I know the other by default? Solid question. To a degree, yes, but not entirely. Think for example of all those middle ground styles. The ones that look so-so on you and that you might own some of at this very moment, perhaps often pairing them with others that suit you even more better.

They look neither awful, nor flat out fantastic on you. They're functional and may be filling a void temporarily until you can replace each one with an even more flattering similar piece, or you may be content with them as they are, but they're not clear cut stars in your wardrobe and you'll want to move away from them over time, if possible.

One of the true keys to having a stellar wardrobe, of any size, is filling it not so much with pricey items, but with ones that fit you excellently, compliment your skin, hair and eye colouring, and which look not just good, but marvelous on you - and when paired with each other.

Believe it or not, while certain styles will flatter each of us more than others, there are actually not a great deal of pieces that most folks can't wear at least one version of. Usually it comes down to a matter of fit, cut, colour, length, and material used as well as - and this is a biggie - the other elements of the outfit you're wearing that day.

For example, the following are some examples of styles that typically look horrible on me, why such is, and what I've learned from years of devoted fashion experience can help get around those problems in many cases (this is by no means a complete list of such items, just three that really stand out in my mind).

-V-necks: As discussed back in this 2012 outfit post, v-necks rarely do me any favours. Why? Because I have small shoulders, am not overly busty, don't have a particularly long neck (which you'd think a v-neck would help with, but oddly, doesn't seem to in my case), and am relatively short waisted. V-necks tend to suddenly give me unwanted linebacker shoulders and only serve to shorten the appearance of my waist's length further.

As a common fashion element though (very much including on many 1940s dresses), I'm not in a hurry to bypass them entirely though and have discovered that I can sometimes wear them if I opt for a wide v-neck, not a narrow one, a fitted cut to the garment (and/or over all ensemble) such as with this great 1940s red wiggle dress, and a thin fabric. Adding a layering piece with a different type of neckline that is more flatter can also be very helpful, as can not wearing a necklace, which would further "chop up" the shape of my collar and chest area, thus further shortening the over all appearance of my torso size.

-Pleats: As someone who is short and curvy, pleats can spell style disaster for me in a New York (Fashion Week) minute. Often they add width to my hips and the appearance of many unwanted pounds to my figure, especially if they're either very wide or very narrow. The trick, I've found in many cases however, is to opt for pleats that start not at my waist, but lower down my legs, say at mid-hip or ever further down (such as with this great vintage pleated plaid skirt).

In doing so, I keep the top of my hips streamlined looking, not wider than that area really is, and allow the volume of the pleats to pool towards the lower half of my legs, which can at times actually help make them look longer, especially when partnered with high heels (as I almost always do when wearing a pleated skirt or dress).

-Stripes: We've probably all heard that horizontal stripes make you look wider, and in some cases that can be true. I've experienced as much, but have also found vertical stripes to be unflattering, arguably even more so. For some reason, they (especially if they're wide), just don't seem to work on my petite height-ed hourglass figure. Unless...I keep the width of the strips very narrow and only sport small does of it at a time. Case in point, this charming cropped thin knit top (even there though, I'm not wild about how wide the stripes make my upper arms, which are by no means the thinnest part of my body, look).


Now, inquiring minds will no doubt want to know, are there pieces that no matter how much you play around with their proportions, shapes and other elements are simply so unflattering that you avoid them like the plague. Yes!!! Goodness gracious, yes!!!



{Like everybody on the planet, I have certain styles (and colours - but that's another post entirely) that don't do a lick of good for my figure. I've worked diligently over the years to recognize and be honest about myself when it comes to such pieces and rarely purchase or wear them, as I know they'll simply languish in my closet and be a source of frustration for me when I do try them on. Three such examples of which - cloche hats, drop waists, and skirts that hit above the knee - appear in the 1920s photo above. Image source.}



Though I am typically the type that's keen to live by the expression "never say never" and that certainly applies to my fashion choices, as a general rule certain things that look so intensely unflattering on me that I never or almost never wear them in any form are shorts (unless they're Bermuda style and hit below the knee), mini skirts or any skirt that hits above the knee, leggings, collar-less suit jackets (they, like v-necks, tend to make my top half look wayyyy bigger than it really is), mock necks, round eyeglass or sunglasses frames, knit skirts and dresses, slinky 1930s style bias cut or other similar dresses, drop waist dresses, thick cable knit sweaters, cloche hats, pillbox hats, white and other really light coloured tights, lace and most decorative patterned hosiery, choker style necklaces, sheer sleeved tops (unless I'm wearing something with opaque sleeves overtop of it, say like a blazer or cardigan), and two-piece swimsuits, amongst others.

Note, this is not a list of fashions that I necessarily dislike. The two can, and often should be, very separate camps. These are garments and accessories that time and time again I have tried on and looked frighteningly bad in. Instead of lifting up my figure, playing to my body's strengths and making me feel positive about my appearance, they did the precise opposite.

The universe, compounded by very key factors like genetics and my health, has not blessed me with a supermodel's body by any stretch of the imagination, however by learning about, and honing my eye for spotting, those pieces that don't do me one red favour, I've been able to build up a wardrobe of items that genuinely do. They (or at least the bulk of them) make me look taller, leaner, and better proportioned.
 
I've learned that 3/4 and full length sleeves work best for me. That I absolutely need my hemlines to hit below (not at or above) my knees and ideally in the mid-calf range. That wide skirts are best partnered with fitted tops, that bulky fabrics can actually make thicker upper arms look bigger than they are, not camouflage their size, and that t-strap shoes can actually work well for those with curvy calves and short legs, assuming you have fairly average sized or slender ankles. There are other points like this too, all of which I think about every single time I go clothes shopping, get dressed, or even in many cases, add an item to an online wishlist.

Each of us, no matter the shape and size of our body will have pieces that don't work for us. While it may be tough to accept that, for example, a turtleneck sweater, a mini skirt, or a crop top isn't our fashion BBF, in doing so, we allow ourselves to focus on those items that do work. We stop wasting precious fashion budget dollars on pieces that end up gathering dust in our closets and build a wardrobe of items that we can turn to day after day with the utmost of confidence.



{Just because you've been wearing a style for years, it doesn't mean that it's actually one that works well for your body. Take a long, hard look at the way a piece falls, hugs, drapes and sits on your. Does any part of your figure look bigger or smaller or differently shaped than you'd ideally want it to? What would an unbiased stranger say if they saw you wearing that piece? What is your own inner voice telling you when you're brutally honest with yourself? All of these things should factor in when building up your vintage wardrobe. Image source.}


If you haven't spent much time in your life focusing on the pieces that don't work well for you, I encourage you to do so asap. Go to closet and take out five, ten, twenty, however many pieces you want that you rarely, if ever, wear.

Try each one on in front a full length (or the largest that you have) mirror and access the situation. Is there a reason that you've worn an item so infrequently? If it's not because you need something else to make it work (say, the right pencil skirt to match a vintage suit jacket that's missing its original skirt) or it's a piece like an evening dress or holiday sweater that typically only gets worn once or twice a year, what is it about that item that has kept you from embracing it?

Chances are, the fit is a good part of the problem. You know it already, but you may not have wanted to admit as much to yourself. After all, you probably plunked down some cold hard cash on that piece at one point, loved it on the hanger (or online listing), and kept telling yourself you'd make it work one day, but you haven't - and in all likelihood, you never will.

That's okay! Fashion, like all things in life, is not without its own degree of trial and error. Instead of bemoaning the fact that that pair of 1930s beach pajamas, wide shouldered 40s suit, or strapless 50s sundress make you look like you've gained fifteen pounds and/or shrunk three inches, confidently decide to sell or give it away and move on. Focus your attention on the pieces in your closet that work wonders for you and purchase others like them. The more you surround yourself with, and actively wear, fashions that look fabulous on your current figure (and that's a key point unto itself, as few us will have exactly the same figure throughout our whole life), the less likely you'll be to buy items that don't work for us.

You'll have only to spot that over-sized polka dot blouse or Grecian goddess inspired dress to know that, no, no, that's not for you, as you beeline towards the Swiss dots tops and sweetheart neck dresses instead. No one can have everything work for them. That's just a simple fact, and while I do ardently believe that one is free to where whatever they please any, ol' time, objectively most of us to want to get the best out of our figures that we possibly can and making smart fashion choices centered solely around items that we know work well for us is a vital component there.

So the next time you go shopping, online or off, remember to keep your eye out not just for pieces that work well for you, but for those that don't, and before you find yourself tempted to buy a coquettish floral cape or cute culottes, stop and ask yourself, will they actually look good on my body or just when they're hanging in my closet? Your wardrobe, your wallet, and most definitely your figure, will all thank you for it.

You asked: How I put my vintage outfits together

Last month we took a gander at the process behind how Tony and I do our photo shoots for the blog, and today I'm delighted to launch into a related topic, which I've been asked about numerous times, including in a comment by the thoroughly lovely (and super talented) Anthea from Sewing ♥ Vintage ♥ Knitting on this post, and that is...how do I put my vintage outfits together.

On the surface, much as with the question of how we take photos, the answer to this query seems like the kind of thing I could answer in a mere sentence or two, but as with so much in life, a bit of thought quickly reveals that there is, in fact, more to the process than what lurks on the surface and I'm happy to share what goes into the vintage looks you see here each week with all of you.

To begin with, like many people in our wonderful sphere, I have certain decades - namely the 1940s and 50s - that I most commonly dress in the styles of. These are the decades that not only fill my heart with immeasurable joy, but which (typically speaking) work best for my body type (short and curvy like a mountain pass). I have been endlessly smitten with the fashions of these two decades since I was the youngest of lasses, and knew in my heart of hearts as a child that I would grow up and wear the styles of this twenty year span, ages before I'd ever found out that other people were into vintage fashion, too.

This isn't, of course, to say that I don't enjoy fashions from other decades (which, on occasion, I may also wear an outfit from as well), it's just that this is my favourite era from a sartorial standpoint and thus I've centered the bulk of my wardrobe around this timeframe. As a result, most of the pieces on the hangers in my closet and the drawers in my dresser either hail from, or are designed to look as though they could have easily come from, the 1940s and 50s.

I mention this point because I think that in order to help facilitate the process of easily putting together outfits you love on a regular basis, it helps a great deal if you know which decade - or decades - you adore and want to dress from (a point which I discussed in more detail here), in order to build up a wardrobe of pieces that compliment one another in the sense that they are all from (or look the part of being from) the same era.

On top of knowing which decades work best for me, I'm also quick to acknowledge the fact that I'm the type of gal who loves a variety of different styles - a point I explored at length back in 2012 in the post How Many Personalities Does Your Wardrobe Have?, in which I highlighted some of the particular styles (such as ultra girly-girl and preppy) that set my heart aflutter year after year without fail.

Knowing then, which decades and styles I adore most, I've worked diligently throughout my adult life to put together a wardrobe the is rich in these kinds of pieces. While not every single garment in my closet is from (or made to look as though it could be) the 1940s and 50s, the vast majority are. Like many of us, my wardrobe is an enjoyable blend of genuine vintage, vintage appropriate, and vintage reproduction pieces, a good number of which I've tried to coordinate fairly well with one another.

This isn't to say that my closet looks like a super matchy-matchy capsule collection, it certainly doesn't (my tastes are far too eclectic for that to ever happen), but there is a general sense of cohesiveness that flows throughout each skirt, sock, bead and beret, and which I believe goes a long way towards my ability to put together outfits I love to wear with a good deal of ease.

Each of us is a different point in terms of how complete or incomplete our respective wardrobe is, and like most folks, there are still some gaps in mine (vintage trousers, I'm looking at you!), but I do have most of my bases - and basics - covered, which also aids in cutting down on the dreaded "I have nothing to wear" feeling that we've all been hit with many a time as we stood in front our well stocked closets.

Speaking of closets, mine is very small (you can technically walk into it, but you'll only get to take about five steps before you hit the back wall) and every last millimeter of space has been put to use (the same goes for all of my dresser drawers), but (humbly) very well organized. I sort all of my garments by type (skirts, dresses, short sleeved blouses, long sleeved blouses, cardigans, jeans, etc) and then further by colour, so that it looks like there are numerous rainbows bursting forth on the racks in there. Ditto for anything houses in a drawer or under-the-bed plastic garment storage container, as well as my accessories (save for brooches, which are arranged by subject matter).

As you may be picking up on, I'm big on creating an efficient, fun workflow when it comes to my wardrobe because I find that having a place for everything and everything in its place means that I don't have to waste time hunting for an item I need when I'm getting dressed. I can throw open the closet door, and know that my beige skirt is where its supposed to be and that I'll find a blue sweater sandwiched between the green and purple ones. Easy-peasy. No undo hunting, no "hmmm, do I actually own a red belt?" moments, and no time lost picking out the pieces I want in a flash.

But Jess, I hear you saying, how to you go about deciding what to partner with what - and how do you coordinate all of it? I'm glad you, like Anthea, asked, and am getting to that point right this very moment.

Colour. Yep, good old, find it nearly everywhere, colour is the secret behind how I put my vintage outfits together. I love colour with all my might. This doesn't necessarily mean that I go about looking as flashy as Carmen Miranda 24/7, but more often than not, I wear multiple colours in each ensemble I don and find that doing so can really help a look appear well put together.

I've always been smitten with colour - its power when it comes to influencing our mood or stirring up certain memories or associations is fascinating, and the ways in which different hues can be married together in the same look is a never-ending source of inspiration for me. There isn't a single colour I don't like at least a few shades of, and in the case of most garments and accessories, I've intentionally worked hard at trying to create a broad spectrum of different coloured pieces so that I can continually view my wardrobe as an artist's palette.

Much as a painter reaches for certain colours that he or she loves time and time again, so too do I have beloved favourite shades, but I try not to pigeonhole myself too much, because doing so can quickly lead to (overly frequent) outfit repetition and boredom.

Much as my closet itself is far from huge, I do not have a massive wardrobe, but because it's filled with so many different colours - partnered with some great basics like pencil skirts, shirtwaist dresses, blazers, gloves, hats and shoes in timeless neutrals - it gives the appearance of being larger than it is, because I can continually come up with so many fun new combinations of differently hued garments.

There's an old expression that typically goes along the lines of "I put my pants on one leg at a time, just like everyone else", and this is certainly true for me too, but I don't necessarily begin getting dressed with the same garment in mind each day. Far from it actually. I constantly start with different pieces and accessories when it comes to putting together a look.

I've kicked off outfits with something as small as a pair of earrings or a pair of tights – doesn’t always have to begin with the largest item they’re going to sport. I'm typically struck by a certain mood each day, as we all are, and this plays into what I want to wear for a given day, as does where I might be going/what I'll be doing throughout the course of said day. Once I know those things, I usually feel pulled towards one or more items in my wardrobe, and build up from there.

I'll let you in on another secret behind how I compose my outfits: the rule of thirds. Yes, that very same rule of thirds which you may be familiar with if you work in (or have an interest in) areas such as photography, art, or graphic design. Though I don't interpret the concept as literally in my wardrobe as I would if I was taking a photograph, I do try to keep portion in mind when I'm getting dressed.




This shines through in two main ways. For starters it means that I (often) like to balance out the proportions of the colours that I use. Commonly I start with one, two or three base colours (for example, in the outfit above, I began with dark purple and black), and then inject one or more colours into my look via my accessories or perhaps another garment, such as a cardigan or scarf, which plays a supporting role, but doesn't steal the show, so to speak. In the case of this particular outfit, grey (gloves and tights) were the supporting colour. Because grey both a natural and very close to black on the colour wheel, it compliments this ensemble, without seeming garish or out of place.

The second way in which proportion comes into play for me is that I like to keep the general scope of my outfits well balanced in terms of how the pieces fit. For example, I'm not overly keen on baggy or super tight fitting clothing generally speaking, and if I do wear a garment that falls into either camp, I will almost always keep the rest of my outfit on the opposite side of things (for example, a slouchy shirt with form fitting capri pants or a curve hugging pencil skirt). On a 5'2" frame like mine, this is especially important, so as to not give the illusion of knocking further inches off of my height.

Speaking of frames, mine is far from perfect, but it's the only one I've got and I've learned from trial and error over the years, that some things work a whole lot better for it than others. By and large, I've tried to filter out those that don't work (no matter how much I may love them in principle) and to fill my closet with garments that I feel comfortable and confident in when I slip them on (here again, doing so helps speed up the process of getting dressed, because it usually means you're less likely to have to try on three or four - or more - similar items to find one that, if you're lucky, you're satisfied with).

Once colour and portion have been sorted, it's time for the finishing touches - these are not to be taken lightly, they can make or break a look, and have the potential to elevate it from merely nice to seriously specular. I love accessories - they're the delicious cherries on just about every ensemble I don, and at times, may even (intentionally) be the main dish themselves.

You've probably heard the expression before that you should always take off one accessory before you leave the house. While this can ring true sometimes, generally speaking, I don't pay it much heed at all. If one dresses with purpose and care, you'll likely know when enough is enough, so to speak, while putting your outfit together; there's no need to risk disrupting the balance you're created at the very last minute.

The types and colours of accessories you opt for will depend a lot on what your focal garments (i.e., skirts, blouses, sweaters, dresses) are and where you'll be going that day. Some people like to keep theirs on the understated side of things - perhaps a classic pair of gloves and a sophisticated brooch or a timeless strand of cream pearls. Others might add on some bangle bracelets, a vintage scarf on their head or some eye-catching earrings, and others still feel nearly naked if they're not decked out in accessories from head to bejeweled toe. There's rarely a right or wrong here, it's simply a matter of how many accessories you enjoy wearing at any given time.




Personally, I tend to opt for a medium number, and am never without at least a couple (say, earrings and a few bangles or a brooch and gloves). As a general rule, if the colours (and/or patterns) of your outfit are bold, loud or eye-catching, you'll want to tone down the volume on your accessories (stick with smaller pieces in supporting, rather than competing or contrasting colours. Matching like to like is also a good approach here, as in the case of the vividly hued outfit pictured above.

On the one hand this outfit might seem a little plain if each piece was examined separately, but the primary colours, small pattern of the shirt, and variety of hues at work here, help it add up to cohesive, youthful, lovely (if I may say so myself) ensemble that is anything but boring. Here, I started with a navy blue pencil skirt, red patterned shirt (the shirt has tiny cherries on it), and green cardigan (as there is a little bit of green in the shirt's pattern).

Three bold colours are often plenty, so instead of introducing more, I kept my accessories in the same palette. Red wrist length gloves, a red handbag, red and white shoes, a small red cherry brooch, a simple white headband (there's also white in the shirt), and bangles in colours from the main outfit creates a harmonious flow and a well put together over all look.

Opting for three key colours in an outfit is an approach I take often (I also use it in my crafting, such as when I'm making scrapbook pages, cards or jewelry) and which I highly recommend to one and all as well.

It often helps to start with one or two neutrals (such as black, brown, grey, beige, taupe, navy blue, denim, cream or white) so as to ground the look, then pick any two (or more) colours that you feel partner well both with that neutral and with each other. Of course it's possible to put together an outfit using fewer or more colours, but three is a really good starting place and one that I begin with more days than not.




Let's take a look at another outfit (this was actually the one that Anthea commented on with her question, so it seems extra fitting to include it in this post). At first glance, what jumps out at you most in this photo? Is it the energetic, charming floral print dress with its rainbow of hues? The lilac belt, the red handbag, the stack of different coloured bangle bracelets, the red shrug, or something else? Because the pattern on this dress was eye-catching, I knew that I was going to want to stick to solid coloured accessories in colours that pulled directly from the frock itself.

Having a plethora to pull from, I did just that, but created a second key focal point, the colour red. It appears in the pattern, then says hello again via the shrug, purse, hair flowers and one of the bangles. White, the background colour of the dress was also repeated here via the gloves and shoes, to help tone down the punchy palette a little, but still keep the look fresh and summery, as it should be given the warm, sunny day it was worn on. There are a lot of colours at work here, but none of them are dominating the show completely. They flow well together and work in harmony to create a look that, while bright, is not overpowering.

What about the opposite side of the spectrum, I hear you saying, what about outfits that are more low key and toned down? You bet - I love colour, but I don't go as "all out" with it everyday as in the case of the last outfit by any means, but that doesn't mean that you'll see me in head to toe black very often either. Even when my outfit is on the less vibrant side of things, I'll still usually include at least a couple of different colours, as well as visual interest via the types of fabrics I choice (think of the sheen of velvet or the nubby landscape of tweed, for example, and how they compare to a flatter material such as linen or cotton).

As a whole, whether you enjoy bright, medium, or soft shades (or tend to live in neutrals), colour is a pivotal and highly important factor in the success of an outfit. Of course a LBD or classic solid coloured suit can be fantastic unto itself, but even there, you'll likely find your look comes more alive if you include a little colour via your accessories. It can be as simple as silver or gold jewelry or as a elaborate as a vintage hat with seven different colours on it.




Working in a similar tonal range (for example, in the outfit above, the three key colours are all from the same tonal family), aiming for complimentary colours, or contrasts that still look harmonious are all great ways to put together a look - no matter your favourite decades or styles - that is bound to make you smile when see your own reflection.

Keep the overall time period you're dressing from in mind, too (though, of course, there's nothing wrong with mixing decades/styles in the same outfit), as well as the portions (and fit) of your garments, and you'll be well on the road to knocking out ensemble after ensemble that you absolutely love.

There are few greater compliments to a person's style than being asked how you put together your outfits, and I want to take a moment to sincerely thank Anthea for her question, as well as the other folks who have said similar things to me over the years. I dress from the heart in a way that brings me joy. I follow certain general guidelines of style, but am not afraid to break the rules. I honour the decades I love, but never hesitate to put my own spin on them, and above all else, I never wear anything that I don't, at least in the moment, completely love.

I encourage you to do the same - to experiment, embrace colour, and put together the sort of outfits you love seeing on others yourself. There's no magic or mystery to it, just a little bravery, a well thought out wardrobe, and a handful or two of great accessories - plus your own unique fashion sense, which, after all, is ultimately what is most likely to inspire someone else to take a style cue from you when they see how wonderfully you're dressed.

15 of my must-have vintage fashion essentials (and one of my top tips for creating a wardrobe you love)

A little over two months ago, when we were still delightfully immersed in the sweltering thick of summer, I received a comment on August's edition of Flickr Favourites in which Uila from the blog The Crazy Ragdoll Cat Lady asked the following:

"Hey doll. I was wondering if you could make a post on the staple pieces that you own on your vintage reproduction wardrobe. And make a list of 25 or 30 (I think 10 can not cover it in the least) vintage reproduction items that are must haves in a vintage wardrobe. You can even break it down to essentials and "Every-vintage-gal-needs-it-because-it-is-too-pretty-to-resist", or something."


Like many vintage fashion fans, my wardrobe is not comprised strictly of genuine vintage, vintage reproduction, or vintage appropriate garments, it's a lovingly curated blend of all three, and my list of must-have items is strikingly similar no matter which of the trio I'm shopping for because my tastes remain essentially the same no matter what kind of vintage or vintage style clothing I'm sporting.

In reflecting on Uila's question, I was instantly reminded of a terrific post that Janey from Atomic Redhead wrote a few months back in which she highlighted 15 Vintage Essentials that are integral in her books to creating a great yesteryear wardrobe (all of which I second completely, and some of whom will be appearing here in today's post, too).
 
Though Uila asked for a list of 25 or 30 items, and I could certainly put together such a lengthy list, I wanted this post to loudly echo my own wardrobe - comprised as it is of vintage, repro, and vintage appropriate pieces - and the honest to goodness truth is that I don't wear (or own) a massive big number of different types of garments myself, so following in Janey’s (super stylish!) footsteps seemed like a good jumping off point.

But Jess, I hear you say, I've seen you wear oodles of different outfits here! That you have, my dears, but if you break each look apart, you will find that at their core, they are comprised, by and large, of a handful of different garments, many of which I own several versions of.

Like most people, it took some trial and error as I worked my way through my teen years and on into adulthood to find out what types of clothing (and accessories) did and did not work well on my (short, curvy) body. There are some styles that even though I love in principle, I know they look like absolute train wrecks on me (mandarin collars, most v-necks, shorts, socks worn with skirts instead of going barefoot or sporting hose, and cloche hats, for example) and so I have either banished them from my wardrobe entirely, or proceed with extreme caution when wearing one of these risky pieces.

In weeding out the bad (again, for my body type) however, I quickly discovered not only the good, but the great, and in trying to make the best of my figure (it, like most peoples', has its own strengths and weaknesses) have attempted to focus the bulk of my wardrobe on these kinds of pieces, fifteen of which I'm going to share with you here today by way of black and white vintage images depicting each of them.

 

{A-line skirts}

{Defined as a skirt that fitted at the hips and then gradually widens/flares out towards the hem, thus resembling the shape of the letter A, such skirts are one of the most universally flatting and classic styles to come of out the mid-twentieth century (where they were especially popular during the 1940s). Hem lengths vary, with some barely skimming the bottom of the knee and others reaching down towards the ankle. A mid-calf length is my personal favourite, especially for during daytime hours.

I love full 50s circle skirts with a burning passion, and certainly own my fair share, but the honest-to-goodness truth is that a-line are typically more figure flattering on me, so I've made sure to include several in my wardrobe. This style of skirt is still widely made today and though it may take a little hunting to find vintage appropriate versions, they can definitely out there - as our pencil skirts, another list entry we'll chat more about later on here.}


 

{Classic style purses}

{Though my handbag wardrobe isn't massive by any stretch of the wardrobe, I have worked hard over the years to find styles with little to no external metal hardware on them (lest it contains nickel, which I'm super allergic to), and which are either genuine vintage or convincing look the part. The latter can be hard to come by in today's world of huge, hardware laden bags, so more often than not, I shop for styles from the 1930s-1980s.

I love styles that are neither too big, nor too small, and which I can successfully fit my wallet, keys, cell phone, lipstick, compact, tissues or a hankie, a pen, and a couple of other small essential items into without having it bursting at the seems or unable to stay closed. In terms of styles, I'm open to just about anything, but especially love classic bucket, clasp top, clutch, and 40s style shoulder bags in particular.}

{Cocktail dresses}

{A cocktail dress that fits you well is as enjoyable to wear as its namesake drink is to enjoy as the day winds down. Variety abounds here, though I'm especially partial to wiggle and fitted sheath styles, perhaps in a standout fabric such as lace, sharkskin, satin or velvet to really ensure all who see it know that it's not the same kind of frock I would have been sporting at noon while running errands around town. Cocktail dresses practically beg to be worn with one's favourite vintage bling, from shimmery strands of crystals to oversized gold brooches, rhinestones earrings to Bakelite dress clips and everything in between, so have a blast while accessorizing for an evening on the town or spent entertaining at home.}


 

{Denim capri or pedal pusher pants}

{I don't have the kind of figure that takes kindly to super skin tight pants, especially in thin fabrics, however, come summer, I make a mad dash for my beloved denim capris (seen in posts such as this). They’re worlds more forgiving than most fabrics for this kind of garment, are every bit as versatile as full length jeans, and channel a great 1950s/early 60s vibe that can veer anywhere from Jayne Mansfield-esque sultry to Audrey Hepburn sweet, depending on how you style the rest of your ensemble.}


 

{Gloves}

{If you've been following my blog for any amount of time, chances are you already know I'm wild about vintage gloves. My collection is a delightfully fun rainbow of all kinds of pairs - long, short, in between, sheer, suede, nylon, cotton, embroidered, the list goes on and one - I adore them all! Gloves were once one of the hallmarks of a well dressed woman's wardrobe and that's a philosophy I still embrace, so gloves are a big must for me all year long.}

{Hats}

{Another vintage fashion accoutrement that I'm endlessly crazy about is hats. Much like gloves they may no longer be a mainstay in most modern wardrobes, but I utterly and completely adore them (you can read lots more about said love in this interview post), as do many vintage wearing folks do and they are one of the areas of my wardrobe that really seems to grow in leaps and bounds (I've bought at least seven hats so far this year alone!).

There is a vintage hat out there for almost every setting, outfit, style type, and season, and though (as with nearly all facets of vintage fashion) they continue to rise in price as time goes on, I speak from plenty of experience when I say that beautiful vintage hats can still be had, online and off, for under $50 - and in some case even under $25. If you love hats, wear them with gusto and joy - they are awesome works of art that you're able to take with you wherever you go and can ad such immense interest to any ensemble.}


 

{Lightweight knits}

{Way back in 2009, when Chronically Vintage was just a wee little newborn, I wrote a post devoted to my love of lightweight knits, and in the four plus years since then, my passion for this type of garment has only continued to grow. Just how many cardigans to I have...well, I haven't counted in a few months, but I know the total now comes in at over 35 (including knit shrugs), and I probably have about 12-15 light weight pullover sweaters. No matter the season, whether as a layering piece or solo top, lightweight knits are one of the most important foundations of my vintage wardrobe.}


 

{Pearl jewelry}

{There is a reason why we associate some of the most sophisticated women of all time (Grace Kelly, Jackie O, and Queen Elizabeth II, for example, the latter of whom is pictured above wearing a double strand pearl necklace on her wedding day} with classic pearls, they - like these gorgeous little spheres themselves -  they exude a certain timeless elegance that is so profoundly perfect in any decade.

Pearls might not be worn as commonly today as they once were, but I dare you to go into any reputable jewelry store and not find at least a few pearl pieces. It's almost a given that you will, and likewise very probable that these pieces could just as easily be worn today as they would have been fifty, seventy, even a hundred years ago. Pearls are remarkably classic and truly look good on every single woman. It's merely a matter of finding your favourite pearl colours, sizes, and pieces and then putting them to work time and stylish time again from now until eternity.

My understatedly beautiful strand of cultured cream pearls sees more outfit play than any other necklace I own, and I'd be willing to bet, always will. It is, like most classically designed pearl jewelry, simply perfect - a fact women have wisely known for generations.

{Pencil skirts}

{Oh, pencil skirts, captivating, curve hugging, office (and date night!) appropriate, endlessly lovely pencil skirts, how I adore you! Of all the skirt styles around, there is none I reach more often or with greater pleasure than a well fitting pencil skirt. I own at least one in most colours of the rainbow, from lipstick red to navy blue, dusty rose to midnight black and delight in putting them to work in both my 1940s and 1950s ensembles alike. If I could only wear one type of skirt for the rest of time, it would be the perpetually stylish pencil for sure.}

{Princess coats}

{As someone of modest height, relatively slight build, but with plenty of curves to go around, it's all too easy for many styles of winter coats - especially those that hit below the hip, to look like they're swallowing me whole. Swing and boxy styles are the bee's knees on some gals, but rarely do me any favours, so I stick loyally to those with fitted, expertly tailored lines, my absolute favourite of which is the classic (marvelously feminine) princess coat, at least one of which I've owned every winter since I was at eighteen years old.}


 

{Pumps (court shoes)}

{Assuming one is wearing a dress or a skirt (and sometimes even well tailored, dressier slacks), there are exceedingly few vintage outfits where a classic pair of pumps doesn't work like a charm. They can be as plain or as fancy as you like, are available at all manner of price points, are often quite comfortable to walk in (due to their, typically, sensible heel height), and are a true must in my wardrobe. I reach for my brown, black and white pairs with almost the same frequency, and could scarcely imagine getting dressed without all three of them standing by at the ready.}


 

{Seamed stockings}

{Few garments so instantly conjure thoughts of the mid-twentieth century as seamed stockings do, nor will many inject a classic look into your wardrobe with the same kind of lightning fast speed. Whether you opt for genuine vintage or modern replica styles, keep your heels (if wearing styles with Cuban or other types of visible heels on the back of the ankle) and seams straight and you're good to go, anywhere, anyplace, anytime on the old school hosiery front.}


 

{Shirtwaist dresses}

{Equal parts practical and polished, the shirtwaist dress was a true wardrobe staple for many women in decades past and its classic lines, wide spread availability, (commonly) inexpensive price tag, and versatility helped to make it one of the most popular and iconic garments of the 1930s – early 1960s. My own wardrobe is peppered heavily with 1940s, 1950s and 1980s does 40s and 50s shirtwaist dresses, both short and long sleeved, in a wide spectrum of hues, and they get worn with great frequency (in outfits such as this, and this, and don't forget this :)).}

 

{Skirt suits}

{Sophisticated, hard working, and so incredibly becoming, a skirt suit that fits you well is one of the best investments in your wardrobe that you can ever make. Whether you're mad for the streamlined, long lined styles of the 30s, adore the broad shouldered looks of the early 40s, go gaga for the wasp waist, full skirted (Dior inspired) look of the tail end of the decade, or swoon over the curve hugging - or conversely, boxy - styles of the 1950s and 60s, there is a skirt suit out there for every vintage loving lass. Though I do find that it can take a while to unearth one that fits me well - or can be altered to fit properly - when I do, it's like hitting wardrobe pay dirt!}


 

{The right underwear and foundation garments}

{This entry really is a whole post (or series of posts) unto itself, and is one that many vintage bloggers have written at length about before - and for good reason! The right underpinnings are of great importance when it comes to ensuring the proper lines of your vintage ensemble. Most yesteryear garments were not designed to be worn with today's high tech Victoria's Secret offerings, they were created to be partnered with the bras, panties, girdles, slips, garter belts, crinolines (petticoats), and even, in some cases, corsets of their day.

This doesn't necessarily mean that you must buy and wear vintage undergarments, lovely as they are, but rather that you should strive to find modern brands that still, or intentionally (as in the case of sellers such as What Katie Did}, create such garments that are in keeping with classic vintage styles from your decade(s) of choice. I almost always wear vintage or vintage appropriate undergarments beneath my clothes and can tell you, it really does help just about any mid-century garment fit and lay better than if you had modern counterparts on instead.}

{To learn more about a specific image, please click on it to be taken to its respective source.}

♥ ♥ ♥

This list is one that works really well for me, my body type and my lifestyle (there are other garments and accessories in my closet of course, too, such as high waisted repro jeans, wedge shoes, bangles, sundresses, shrugs, black tights, and oxfords, but again, these are some of the really key players that you've seen - and will continue to see - time and time again in my vintage outfit posts).

Many of the items on it will likely work for you as well, but do not fret for the tiniest of moments if not all fifteen of them do. By the same token, you do not have to look at this post like a shopping list to be followed to the exact letter. Embrace instead the categories of garments listed here and find the best one (or ones) in each for your own body and lifestyle.

On of the best wardrobe tips I can ever bestow on anybody the world over is is this: don't feel like you need to own a thousand and one different types of garments and accessories, instead find the ones that truly look fantastic on you and then buy multiples of those in different colours, fabrics, slight variations, and seasonal weights.

If you know that at least 90% of what's hanging in your closet and tucked away in your dresser drawers fits you well no matter what items go into creating a certain look, you can honestly get by with far less than 15 different must-haves.

The more you fine tune the selection of items that look the very best on you, the more your own signature style emerges. This style will help define your appearance and guide your future shopping trips. It can can reduce the number of "mistake purchases" you encounter, speed up the daily process of getting dressed, and even help you grown considerably more confident in your own appearance (because you love how you look in your own group of vintage wardrobe essentials).

Don't get overly hung up on whether a piece is vintage, repro, or vintage appropriate. I will never thumb my nose at any of these and highly recommend that you don't either - why limit your wardrobe's maximum potential by excluding one or more of them just because you might think that you have to wear all genuine vintage or all vintage reproduction?

There is a vast world of garments and accessories out there for those of us who love old school fashion to choose from. Avail as much as your budget, closet size, and other circumstances will permit. Each of these three categories offers a huge abundance of items to choose from, and chances are there are many in each that could - and will - work splendidly for your own wardrobe.

Thank you very much, dear Uila, for your wonderfully nice post request. I hope that my reply here has helped to show you that one doesn't necessarily need a wardrobe with 25, 30, 50 or more different types of garments (though of course, it can have that many, if you so desire, don't get me wrong), but instead that one of the best ways to create a killer wardrobe is with different multiples of the kinds of pieces that look best on you and which channel whatever kind of vintage look you're after.

To Uila and one and all, I enthusiastically say have fun, experiment, do a bit of closet editing, and some more shopping, if needed, my dears, and wholeheartedly embrace those items that are absolute must-haves in your own awesome vintage wardrobe!

Ten investment worthy vintage wardrobe items

Whether past or present, my style icons typically tend to be real world women just like myself. One person who's superb eye for style, passion for the past, and incredible fashion sense continually knock my Cuban heel stockings right off is the deeply beautiful Joanna from Dividing Vintage Moments.

She's a real world lady with a heart of gold, a skillfully curated (incredible!) vintage wardrobe, and blog post after blog post that never fail to inspire, education, and delightful myself and, I'm certain, all of her other readers, too.

Last week Joanna announced a giveaway on her blog in conjunction with a post in which she highlighted ten vintage items that she feels are always worth the splurge. Her list is excellent and truly speaks to the sophisticated style that flows through everything this elegant woman wears. As a means of gaining two additional entries for giveaway, participants are encouraged to write a blog post on the same topic themselves.

The chance to win some stellar items (jewelry, perfume, matching beaded purse and gloves!) and write about vintage fashion, sign me on the double!

I wanted to get set to work on creating this post the moment I read Joanna's, but I've been going through an extra rough spell on the health front this month, so this post, though not overly large, took me a few days to put together. The winner of the giveaway isn't being drawn until tomorrow though, so I just barely managed to finished on time. Phew! :)

I feel like there's a sense of serendipity to the fact that Joanna suggested giveaway participants follow her lead and write about vintage pieces that they personally feel are worth splurging on, because that's a topic that I touched on in this post at the start of the year, and which I'm making a conscious effort to focus some of my wardrobe budget on this year (and beyond).

While I have certainly made some investment purchases (vintage and otherwise) throughout the course of my life, generally speaking, I tend to be the type of person who seeks quality on a budget. I traverse the web right, left and center, hunting down bargains, deals, sales, you name it, so long as it helps me get the most bang for my wardrobe buck.

Sometimes however, especially once one already has a decent basic vintage wardrobe, there comes a point when you need to step back and evaluate where it would be wise to save and where it would suit you best to splurge.

The answer to this question will be different for each of us, as no two people have exactly the same wardrobes nor daily circumstances around which they dress. Part of me would love to have a closet teaming with nothing but 40s and 50s evening gowns, but that would highly impractical for someone in my shoes, who is lucky if they have one black tie event to attend a year.

Investment pieces don't have to be impractical of course, but at times they may be items that you know full well you're not going to get as much millage out of as a basic LBD. That is 100% ok. A splurge of any type generally implies some degree of extravagance and that said item (or experience, for example, in the case of a super pricy dinner at a posh restaurant or a trip to Europe) will long be viewed as a special treat. If it wasn't, one might argue, would it still qualify as a splurge?

The following ten items are ones that I believe are worth investing in, so long as doing so isn't going to put you into any kind of serious finical hot water. I own a some of these things myself, but others are items that remain still to be added to my wardrobe as time goes on.

Instead of highlighting examples of these ten garments and accessories that are for sale from various sources today, I opted instead to show you photos and illustrations from the 1940s and 50s, as these are the kinds of images I usually turn for inspiration before I begin really getting serious about my quest to find my next vintage investment piece.

{A pinafore/jumper dress}

{A wonderful mid-century umbrella}

{A classic, well made winter coat}

{A few really nice pairs of vintage gloves}

{An amazing cape}

{Mid-century rain and/or snow boots}

{A classic two-piece skirt or dress suit}

{A fun novelty print cardigan}

{A glamorous evening gown}

{A warm winter muff - all the better if it comes with additional matching items, such as a scarf, hat or gloves}

{To learn more about a specific image, please click on it to be taken to its respective source.}

♥ ♥ ♥

My word, it's a good thing I'm on a mighty strict budget at the moment, or I'd be tempted to run out and start hunting down a few of these treasures right now!

No such happening, however, as I already picked up an item this month that had been on my vintage wish list for years now, and which I was happy to invest in (mind you, still at what I considered to be a relatively good deal - just because something's an investment piece doesn't mean you can't try to get a good deal on it), when it came along: a wonderful pink 1950s patio/squaw dress, which should be arriving in the mail any day now.

Which of these items would make it on to your own top ten list at the moment? If you're in the mood to write about ten of your own choices are are interested in taking part in Joanna's giveaway, there's still time today to do just that.

Even if someone waved a magic wand right now and, poof, all of these items were in my closet, that wouldn't change the fact that I would still recommend them to others are worthwhile investments, especially if we lived in similar climates and led lives with much in common.

These pieces - very much like ones Joanna recommended - are classic, becoming, beautiful items that will stand the test of time and bring their own much joy and use. And those points, my dears, should always be amongst the hallmarks of any wonderful vintage splurge.

Thoughts on my wardrobe for the year ahead

Three days shy of one full year ago, I posted about my desire to fill some of the gaps in my wardrobe in the coming year. At the time we were waist high in packing and preparation for our (then) upcoming cross country move, but after long, long mornings and afternoons spent in the close company of packing tape and countless cardboard boxes, in the evenings I was busy as a busy trying to scout out good deals on some of the items (and a few others) I listed in that post.

Around the same time I was in the midst of selling off my rather large collection of cute Japanese Re-Ment miniatures, so that I could apply some of the funds from their sale to buying the garments my wardrobe was sorely missing. As you can imagine, last January was a very, very hectic month! Sales went great though and I was able to purchase numerous items, some of which have appeared here in various wardrobe posts since then, and to fill in a fair number of the gaps that I felt were lacking when it came to certain staple garments.

A good part of the reason why I felt especially rushed about doing a decent sized chunk of this shopping is because I didn't want to move to B.C. with the stress that can come from having a somewhat (or very, as the case may be) incomplete set of basic items in my closet, in a new house and in a town where I knew we'd be doing a lot more going out and socializing. I wasn't short on clothes in general, don't get me wrong, it's just that while I had scores of some items, I had very few - or none at all - of others that I felt really constituted the backbone of any good vintage wardrobe.

Most of those missing items have been acquired. A few remain (vintage or repro trousers that actually fit me well, instead of being way too big or just a touch too small, as is often the case, I find, would be marvelous, for example) and a couple of others have popped up as time went on, but over all I no longer have that looming sense of dread about missing some rather key pieces from my closet.

Three cheers on that front for sure! But what about my wardrobe and 2013? What does this year hold in store for it? This is a topic that began to pop up often in my thoughts around last October and which has continued to do so ever since. The more I thought about it, the more it struck me that I usually divide what I want to buy (in terms of clothing into) four basic categories:


-Wardrobe staples: Those pieces (such as a basic black skirt, white blouses, a sturdy winter coat, etc) that make up the foundation of your closet and which are fundamental to your wardrobe.

-Variations on staples: Technically, if you have the very basics covered, though your wardrobe might be small, you wouldn't truly be without clothes. However, just as few of us would want to eat the same foods few foods day in and day out, so too do most of us crave variety in our wardrobe and generally expand beyond the very basics. These pieces are the next rung up the totem pole, so to speak, and are variations on the basics (for example, a red skirt instead of just a dark neutral hued one, or a second pair or repro jeans) and often constitute the biggest percentage of a person's wardrobe.

-Wish list items: These are garments and accessories that you may have had to save up and/or search for before buying. They're items you want, but which may not be the most practical thing to buy on a whim, especially if you're lacking in either of the two previous categories. You'll likely have some wish list items that fall into the other first two categories, but also some that are more frivolous (and I don't say that in a negative way at all) and just for fun (say, a tulle 1950s prom dress to wear for fancy parties or date nights).

-Holy Grail items: There are pieces - and we all have them - we'd practically give our right arm to have in our closets. The reasons why we don't (yet) vary, but are often centered around an items rarity, price and/or ability to find said piece in our size. They can be staples, but very often are more akin to wish list items (for more on the topic of wardrobe holy grails, see this post from December 2012).

{Sometimes pieces or ensembles can fall into more than one of these four categories. For example, an outfit such as this timelessly wonderful 1940s Hardy-Amies suit with matching felt hat would be, for me at the moment, both a wardrobe staple and wish list verging on holy grail find. Image source.}



Having bulked up the number of staples in my wardrobe, and in some areas not lacking much in terms of variations or even wish list items, this year I'm predicting that the focus of my clothes shopping will be on certain variation staples, some wish list items, and perhaps even a holy grail piece or two (a girl can always dream!).

Beyond that though, I've already begun to somewhat shift how I spend some of my clothes budget. No longer (when it comes to most types of garments) do I feel that sense of incompleteness and a desire to keep upping the tally. I have numerous skirts, sweaters, tops, hats, gloves, and dresses, for example, and am not about to risk going naked anytime soon! I'm very grateful for my wardrobe (which, while not huge, has been well curated and is full of the kinds of pieces that serve me best for the life I'm living these days) and don't usually buy clothes just for the sake of it or out of habit.

Instead I like to review what I own already every so often and see what's missing, what needs to be replaced, what should be weeded out and sold or passed along to someone else, and what I'd like to find for it in the future. Instead of working (largely) on quantity (of over all garments), this year I want to challenge myself to save up and spend a bit more on investment pieces.

I'm not talking vintage Dior evening gowns here, goodness no, but rather, instead giving myself permission to allocate a bit more (within the scope of my budget) on the garments and accessories that I buy. Many times I've passed up a piece I liked, or even loved, because I knew that the money it cost would probably be better spent on purchasing multiple pieces that I needed.

I don't think, even if I woke up tomorrow and was suddenly a billionaire, that I'd ever be the kind of the person who forgoes a great bargain (on the contrary, I'd be thrilled to have money to go barging shopping with!), but now that I have the piece of mind that comes from having a fairly well rounded wardrobe, I can allow myself to spend a bit more on certain pieces from time-to-time.

Instead, for example, of buying five cute $20 vintage hats over time, I could could purchase one show stopping topper for $100.00. There are also certain staples that cost a bit more (for example, vintage suits) that I still need, but which I've largely refrained from. It's my hope that circumstances will permit me to buy some of those pieces this year, as (again) I'm no longer worried so much about filling in those aforementioned wardrobe gaps.

As we sit here at the beginning of a brand new year, I feel very positive about the direction that my wardrobe will continue to take this year. I'll never stop nabbing a really great bargain on something I need (or just plain love!) when I see it, but at the same time, I'm excited about the prospect of adding more investment pieces, no matter which of the four categories they fall into, to my closet in the coming months and beyond.

What are your wardrobe goals for this year? Are you working on plugging holes? Expanding certain beloved categories, trying to cross items off your wish list, focusing on finding some of those elusive holy grails, or something else entirely?

Whatever your plan, I hope you have an awesome year of vintage clothes shopping all throughout 2013!

A beginner’s guide to buying and wearing vintage appropriate clothes

A couple of months ago in a comment left on one of my vintage outfit posts (this cute 1950s novelty print skirt to be exact), a lovely reader named Dolly asked, “Have you ever written a post on how to shop for modern clothes and make them look vintage?"


The short answer is, no, I haven't. Not until today that is! While the subject of shopping for vintage appropriate modern pieces is certainly something that I've touched on in numerous posts over the years, to the best of my recollection, I haven't devoted a piece solely to the topic of how to select modern clothes that have a distinctly vintage vibe to them.

As I love answering your questions and helping others embark on their own vintage wearing journeys (which is what our lovely question asker Dolly is doing), today, before we really get into the thick of the holiday season, I wanted to take a stab at tackling this excellent query.

This however, is not a cut and dry topic, and I'm sure that there are many different opinions on this interesting point (which of course you're encouraged to share in the comment section). As such, I'm going to tell you how I shop for vintage appropriate modern pieces and provide some tips that I believe can benefit anyone who wants to, or already enjoys doing, the same.




{A summery gingham example of an outfit, which like many I wear, combines vintage and modern vintage appropriate pieces together. For the exact outfit details – including which pieces are new and which are vintage – see the original post from last Canada Day.}


While many of us have been wearing vintage for years or even decades, and shopping for pieces (be they vintage, reproduction, or modern) that fit our personal styles has become second nature, it's important not to forget that there are lots of folks out there who are just starting to get into vintage, who may need some guidance, or who are are looking for a bit of a refresher course if they've been away from the vintage scene for a while.

This post was written with these categories of people in mind, but the suggestions and advice offered herein certainly apply to everyone who enjoys wearing vintage styles.


Determining what decade or decades you want to emulate


First of all, if you're just starting out with wearing vintage, it can help to have one or more specific decades in mind that you want to emulate the looks of. I, as many of you know, wear fashions from the 1940s and 50s, two decades which are very popular amongst vintage clothing fans. However, you may feel your passion lies in the roaring twenties, swinging sixties, or any other twentieth century decade (for the sake of this post, we'll assume you're picking a decade from the last century).

Often times vintage fans enjoy wearing styles from multiple decades, and many of us tend to be drawn to two (or more) decades that touch one another, such as the 20s and 30s, 30s and 40s, 40s and 50s, or 50s and 60s. Others however, enjoy sporting fashions from a wide range of periods, and may mix fashions from different decades in the same outfit, or stick to one decade per ensemble.

The choice is completely up to you, and while some people are steadfast devotes to a certain era, crafting their whole wardrobes around the years they love best (which there is absolutely nothing wrong with in the least - it takes a lot of work, knowledge and dedication to commit to one distinct period/look all the time), you may find that you'd prefer to sport styles from various decades in the same outfit.

Today however, we're going to assume that you're interested in wearing clothes that are appropriate to one decade (or small group of years that shared similar fashions, such as the late 40s into the early 50s) per outfit, and that you already know what decade (or decades) it is that you're passionate about.

Chances are, even if you're a complete greenhorn when it comes to wearing vintage, you have a general sense of the fashions that are associated with each decade of the twentieth century and probably feel like one or more of those time periods are calling your name.

However, just as enjoying food doesn't automatically make you a skilled cook, so too does take research and time to hone your ability to pinpoint styles from certain eras and to develop a sense of how to put together a period appropriate look and how to date pieces (this doesn't mean you take you clothes out for dinner and movie, instead "dating clothes" means that you have the knowledge to look at a piece and know when, give or take a few years at most, it was most likely originally created and in fashion).

This is a topic that really is a post (if not a whole book!) unto itself, but for those who are looking to better study and understand the fashions of certain various decades, I highly recommend checking out the images on sites such as Wikipedia, Flickr, Pinterst (I have Pinterst boards devoted to all the eras of the twentieth century, as there are tons of other Pinterest users with historically related boards there, too), Tumblr, the Life Magazie achieves, The Costume Gallery, Glamour Daze, Fashion Era, other vintage fashion related blogs (you'll find lots on my blog links page), and videos on Youtube.

In addition, knowledge and inspiration can be gained from a great many books (modern and vintage), yesteryear magazines, movies, sewing pattern sleeve art, and of course old photographs.


Getting started & examples of timeless wardrobe choices

Let’s assume that you have a favourite decade and you want to wear the looks of that time frame. No doubt you'll be interested in sporting genuine vintage pieces, however these can sometimes be expensive, hard to find in certain sizes, and tricky to track down in person (especially if you live in a small town).

Online vintage shopping is a terrific option, and one I avail often myself, but there are times when you may want to shop in person, and/or really need to keep your budget in mind (vintage bargains can be had online, especially if you're patient, just as they can off line at thrift stores, yard sales, flea markets, car boot sales, op shops, etc sometimes, don't get me wrong).

Or you may want to turn to your favourite modern online clothing sites to find vintage appropriate pieces. In either case, there are things that can help make finding period appropriate garments easier.

For starters, there are certain garments that, while they may have changed a bit over the years as styles have involved, remain absolutely true classics. It is wise, no matter the era(s) you enjoy wearing most, to build your wardrobe, at least in part, around these kinds of basics. While by no means a complete list, some pieces that are often viewed as timeless wardrobe staples are as follows:

{Apt. 9 Essential Solid Blouse in white, $24.99, from Kohl’s.}

-Well tailored button front blouses (often in white, neutrals and various solid hues hues). Look for blouses that are either extremely basic and timeless in their design (like the example above) or which include vintage-y details, such as peter pan collars, interesting sleeve details, bows or ruffles.

{Rachel Zoe Tie-Neck Blouse, $103.00, Neiman Marcus.}

-Tie neck (aka, pussy bow) blouses. A look standing classic amongst stylish lasses, this beloved style of blouse can work for looks from many decades, assuming you find one in a cut, colour, fabric and pattern (if applicable) that calls to mind the era you’re dressing in the style of.

{Fly and By Cardigan, $57.99, ModCloth.}

-Lightweight knits, including cardigans and sweaters (for more on the subject of lightweight knits, and plenty of examples - both vintage and vintage appropriate - of them, be sure to check out this post I wrote about them back in 2009).

{Satin Open Front Shrug, $59.95, Le Chateau.}

-Shrugs and bolero jackets. Look for styles that channel a mid-century vibe in knits, satin, silk, cotton, and tweed.

{Viola, Senorita Skirt, $74.99, ModCloth.}

-Pencil skirts  in a solid colours (black, brown, navy, and grey in particular are excellent options as they can easily be paired with vintage blazers/jackets for a suit look or worn with tops, blouses, sweaters, and cardigans on their own), in lengths that hit at or anywhere below the knee.

{Alfani Belted A-Line Skirt, $73.00, Macy’s.}

-A-line Skirts (same general criteria as for pencil skirts)

{High Waisted Thrills Skirt, $49.00, Plasticland.}

-Circle Skirts (again, same general criteria as for a-line and pencil skirts).

{Classic Shirtdress, $99.99, J. Crew.}

-Shirtwaist dresses. Look for styles that hit just below the knee or longer, with crisp collars and classic detailing.

{MICHAEL Michael Kors Peplum Peasant Blouse, $54.00, Nordstrom.}

-Peasant style tops (all the better if it’s at least semi-fitted, though a bit of blousing is often part and parcel with this charming style of top).

{Ralph Lauren Cotton Twill Sailor Pants, (currently on sale for) $29.84, Lord & Taylor.}

-High-waisted trousers and jeans (prior to the 1960s, it was uncommon for women's pants, jeans or shorts to hit below the navel).

{Foxfield tweed jacket, $129.99, Coldwater Creek.}

-Tweed blazers, jackets and coats in classic weaves and neutral hues (tweed jackets look so smart with with vintage skirts for the colder months).

{Prim the Know Coat, $109.99, ModCloth.}

-Timelessly tailored winter coats in fabrics such as wool, felt, cashmere, Persian lamb, and camel hair.

{DKNY Diamond Stitch Double Breasted Trench, $143.00, Zappos.}

-Classic (belted) trench coats (camel, beige, and black are good colour choices).

{Black Calfskin Belt with Antiqued Brass Hardware, $48.00, Brooks Brothers.}

-Black and neutral hued belts (often) with understated buckles and detailing.

{Black Patent Bowling Bag Purse, $69.99, Mango.}

-A small to medium sized leather, patent leather, faux leather, vinyl, silk, or sturdy cotton handbag in black, brown, camel, navy, grey, or another dark neutral (burgundy and hunter/pine green can both be surprisingly versatile shades) with minimal hardware and very classic lines.

{Black cashmere-Lined Lambskin Gloves, $138.00, Brooks Brothers.}

-Solid coloured, classically tailored leather (or faux leather) gloves.

{17” 8mm Glass Pearl Necklace with Deco Clasp, $198.00, Brooks Brothers.}

-Single stands of pearls, pearl bracelets, and pearl stud earrings. Pearls exude elegance and beauty, and are as timeless – and vintage appropriate – as the sky is blue.

{Eastland Classic II Penny Loafer Shoes, $53.00, Sierra Trading Post.}

-Brown or black penny loafers.

{Frye Delia Saddle Shoes, $110.99, Zappos.}

-Traditionally styled saddle shoes and buck shoes.

{Nine West Ambitious black pumps, $68.95, Zappos.}

-Basic pumps (court shoes) in black, navy, white, brown, red, and other versatile colours (or for an extra jolt of alluring style, opt for leopard print).

{4 inch leopard print peep toe heels, $45.97, Amazon.}

-Peep-toe heels (all the cuter if they have bows or rosettes on the vamp).


Now, of course there are examples of all of these garments that work better for certain decades than others (and, by the same token, versions that are wholeheartedly modern to the point where they really couldn't be styled so as to look like a piece from an early era), but as a general rule, these are amongst the most timeless pieces any woman can have in her vintage appropriate wardrobe.


Things to keep in mind when shopping for vintage appropriate fashions

When looking at a modern piece and trying to size up if it's going to work with your vintage wardrobe, here are some things that you’ll want to keep at the forefront of your mind.


-Fabric: What material is the garment made out of? Is the material one that would have been around during the decade you love or which looks very much like it could have been? Is the pattern and/or colour appropriate for your time frame of choice? Is the weight of the garment in keeping with the period? Are there any embellishments (buttons, zippers, frogs, sequins, beading, embroidery, ties, etc) on the material/garment and if so, do they lend to, or detract from, the vintage feel of the piece?


-Colour: Though it's easy to think back to the past and see the world through largely a black and white lens, the reality is that many vintage garments were loaded with colours of all types, from whisper soft pastels to blazing bright, and everything in between. Though you'd not likely have found a highlighter yellow flapper's dress, you could have encountered one in rust, jade green, crimson, teal, or silver, for example.

Certain colours are generally associated with each decade, and as your knowledge of your favourite eras deepens, you'll soon come to recognize the hues that really tie into your decade of choice.

Though there's definitely some wiggle room when it comes to colours, generally speaking, the more you opt for colours that were appropriate (or best suited to) a certain period, the more likely a garment or accessory may be to have a wonderful vintage appropriate feel to it. One great way to quickly get a feel for the colours that were worn during a certain time frame is to look at old (colour) catalogs and magazines from that time, as well as colour movies (if applicable).



-Lines: Whether from memory or while looking at images from that era (or your favourite bloggers wearing their vintage threads from that time period), look at the lines of a garment and see if the tailoring is similar (or virtually identical, as the case may be) to the decade(s) you're interested in. If it is, this is often a key point in helping to determine if a piece may work for your vintage look.


-Construction: When you look at a piece (or better yet, when possible, hold it in your hands) does it appear (or feel) well made? While shoddy clothes have been around for eons, many vintage pieces, even at lower price points were well made and designed to stand up to years of wear. Check seams, hems, button holes, zippers, and other potentially weak (in terms of construction/risk of damage) points on a piece, even if it's brand new, to make sure that this is a quality garment.


-Overall appearance: There have been times when I've been out shopping and instantly been struck by how very much a modern piece looked like it could have just hopped through the time space continuum and landed here from another era. In fact, I had this happen to me while in a consignment store a couple of months ago with a black dress that, though thoroughly modern, looked incredibly like like many black dresses I've seen over the years from the 1920s.

If a garment strikes you as clearly looking like its from a certain era, that's perhaps the best element to try and find when shopping for modern pieces that have a definite vintage vibe to them. Look at the waistline, sleeve length, hem length, garment construction, embellishments, and material, if these stack up and meet the grade, you likely have a winner on your hands.


-Size: Beyond merely aiming to buy garments that are the right size for your body shape and height, is the the size of the garment in keeping with the proportions that a piece from your decade(s) of choice would have originally have been?

While women sometimes donned men's clothes to intentionally get a baggy look in the 40s and 50s (in particular), often times ladieswear was form fitting and meant to hit at certain spots on the body. Slouchy, excessively baggy, overly tight, hugely oversized, or strangled portioned (e.g., the high front, low back skirts that were all the range last year) pieces are not very likely to look vintage appropriate (with the exception of a few garments, such as swing coats, that are supposed are supposed to fit large and loose).


-Length: Much like size, length is another important factor when it comes to your vintage appropriate garments. With exceptions made for shorts, beach wear, and certain 20s dresses, few skirts and dresses prior to the 1960s hit above a woman's knees. Look at the length and proportions of a garment and ask yourself, objectively, if it really does look like it could have just hopped out of the 30s, 40s, or 50s.

If the answer is "no", this may not be a deal breaker, but you have to think, right then and there, about if there's anyway it can still work. Sometimes alteration can help, other times all a piece may need is to be tucked in (for example, longer shirts and sweaters tucked into high-waisted jeans and trousers often lend them a wonderful 1940s feel), and others still you may have to pass, because length (and heel height, while we're on the subject of length) can easily make or break the vintage appropriate-ness of a garment.


-Alteration-ability: Not a real word, I know, but a real concept for sure. By alteration-ability, I mean, if you look at a piece and it strikes you as being relatively vintage appropriate, is there anything that can be added, removed, or altered to make it appear even more so?

For example, could the buttons be swapped with vintage or more classically styled ones on a blouse or coat to instantly lend it a great 40s feel, or could you remove the lime green fur collar from a black 1990s winter coat to make it seem more like a classic 30s winter topper? If this kind of alteration is something you can do yourself or can afford to have done professionally, then it may be worth getting the garment and having it altered.


-Layer-ability: Again, a homemade term, with practical real world application. Sometimes you'll find a piece that is vintage looking in some respects, but not so much in others. Case in point, certain camisoles, blouses, and dresses. In such instances, clever layering may be all it needs to help a modern piece suddenly look like it hopped out of the tumultuous thirties or fabulous fifties.

Look for necklines, cuffs, collars, and hems with vintage appeal and see if layering a vintage (or vintage appropriate) piece (or pieces) over the not-so-vintage parts of a garment helps it to take on an old school appeal. If a piece is well priced and is able to do so, it may be worth picking up, especially for the colder months when layers are often a must.


Sourcing vintage appropriate modern pieces

I've said it before, but I'll say it again, no matter where I go, I always (always!) keep my eyes peeled for vintage appropriate fashions. While certain stores and locations (e.g., yard sales and flea markets) will obviously lend themselves more to finding such pieces, anywhere that sells clothing has the potential to offer up a piece that may work for you.

I've found 50s looking sweaters in the clothing section at grocery stores, 40s appropriate skirts in trendy teenybopper shops, shrug sweaters in avant garde modern boutiques, lucite/Bakelite looking plastic bangles at the dollar store, and rayon scarves that look like they could have been made seventy years ago at the local drug store.

Train your eye to constantly scan your surroundings and to look for tell-tale signs (certain colours, lines, hem lengths, fabrics, etc) of a piece that will work for your wardrobe.

Odd as it may sound in relationship to vintage clothing, it can also help to keep an eye on modern trends. Fashion is incredibly cyclical and designers often look to the past for inspiration when crafting their present day collections. Though most of-the-moment pieces will likely not work that well for mid-century looks, there’s usually at least one trend each season that pulls so heavily from the past (case in point, the resurgence of peplums this year) that may suddenly provide you with a wealth of garments that could work for your vintage look.

You don't need to buy new to get a vintage look either, be sure to check out local thrift, charity, second hand, and consignment stores, as well as yard sales, flea markets, rummage sales, swap meets, auctions, and estate sales for modern pieces that channel the era you're after. By the same token, falling somewhere between vintage and modern, are pieces from more recent decades (the 1970s-2000s) which may have the look of the era your after.

When shopping online, such garments are sometimes listed with titles such as "1980s does 1940s black cocktail dress" or "1970s does 1930s wide brimmed hat". These pieces can often provide a more budget-friendly version of garments from your favourite decade for a fraction of the cost of an actual (earlier) vintage piece.

Online shopping is a great way to find vintage appropriate clothing (as well, of course, of vintage reproduction clothes, too), as there are literally thousands of online clothing sellers around the world.

Some of my favourite sources (be it for visual inspiration and/or actual purchasing) for vintage appropriate pieces are the fifteen that follow (as well as the others mentioned in the wardrobe basics examples earlier in this post):


-American Eagle Outfitters

-Anthropologie

-Banana Republic

-Brooks Brothers

-Cath Kidston

-Coldwater Creak

-Forever 21 (yes, you have to weed through tones of modern/trendy pieces, but whether online or in person, I almost always find at least one great vintage appropriate piece when I shop at Forever 21)

-H&M

-ModCloth

-Old Navy (I've gotten a lot of great thin knits, such as the cardigan I'm wearing here, from Old Navy over the years)

-Plasticland

-Ralph Lauren

-Reitmans

-Sears (I've found some really nice vintage appropriate blouses, sweaters, cardigans, and shoes there over the years)

-Talbots

-Target


That little something extra

Earlier in this post we talked about altering and/or layering a modern piece to give it more of a vintage feel, by the same token you can sometimes use accessories to inject more of a period appropriate quality to a garment. Some examples that can help in this regard are vintage jewelry and hats, classic belts, vintage scarves, detachable collars and/or cuffs, lady ties (such as those sold by etsy seller Flapper Girl), vintage or vintage appropriate shoes, and classic coats.

However, just as the old expression states that you can't get blood from a stone, so too are there times when, no matter how much you like a garment, accessory or pair of shoes, if you have to face the fact that it's not going to work for your chosen decade.

Of course you can still buy it to wear at other times, if you'd like, but, again, don't try and force a square peg into a round hole. Instead, look at the garment (or accessory) and determine what you like most about it (colour, fabric, pattern, cut, etc) and then see if you can find an actual vintage or other vintage appropriate piece that incorporates that quality, but is more in keeping with the styles of your favourite decade.

Always try to keep in mind that vintage styling isn't just about the clothes, important and integral as they are to any period appropriate look. If you're aiming to really recreate the exact styles of a certain decade, it helps a great deal to ensure that your hair and make-up (as well as your accessories and shoes) are in keeping with those styles that were in use at time.

One could argue that this rings even more true if you're using modern pieces to appropriate a vintage outfit, instead of sporting actual vintage garments. In either case though, hair and make-up can go a long way towards helping you create the fabulous yesteryear look you're after.


What it all boils down to

Though I know that some vintage clothing fans out there only wear genuine vintage pieces, I'd venture to say that a good percentage of us incorporate some combination of reproduction, handmade, and/or vintage appropriate pieces into our wardrobes in conjunction with our vintage garments. Those just starting out in the vintage fashion world, may even be basing their whole old school inspired wardrobe on such pieces.

As the years roll on and vintage prices most likely continue to rise, while at the same time the available amount of vintage clothing dwindles, likely more and more of us will turn to (or continue to buy) modern pieces that we can convincingly put to use in our everyday wardrobes.

Knowledge of the decades you enjoy wearing most, common sense, and the tips in this post should help steer you in the right direction when it comes to, as Dolly asked, shopping for modern clothes that you can effectively, beautifully use in your day-to-day vintage looks.

Have fun, enjoy shopping online and off, and feel free to share snaps here anytime you put together a great vintage appropriate outfit.