Seven vintage garments it might surprise you to learn that I don't own

There are certain items that are the bread and butter of a vintage wardrobe, especially for those who wear 1930s, 1940s, and/or 1950s styles. We know them well - pencil skirts, shirtwaist dresses, cardigans, high waisted repro jeans, and pearl (not to mention Bakelite!) jewelry, for example - and love them to bits (of course those who favour other eras have their own batch of staple styles as well, too, these are just some that tend to be especially common for mid-century fashion fans). They're must-have cornerstones of our closet and pieces that we rarely go more than a few days without sporting at least one of (see this post from 2013 for 15 of my vintage fashion essentials).

Beyond these most fundamental of vintage wardrobe ingredients however, there is still fairly large number of items that it is typically assumed most vintage (and/or rockabilly) wearers will own and when it surfaces that you might not actually have one or more such pieces, the response, I've found, is usually something along the lines, "Seriously? Not even one?!".

Nope, not even one. Sometimes this is because I haven't yet struck upon the right one, at the right price, or perhaps I used to own one, but it has bit the dust and I'm between said items for the time being. In other instances, a certain garment or accessory - no matter how much I may adore and appreciation - might simply look disastrous on me and as such I've made a conscious choice to exclude said item from my daily ensembles (learning about and working around styles that do not do you the tiniest of favours is an extremely important part of having an amazing vintage wardrobe that brings you joy, and is a topic I covered in much further depth in this post last year).

In others still, I may not have felt a longing to own such a piece. Even within the walls of our vintage wardrobes, our personal tastes are apt to change an evolve a little, and though it's rarely discussed, there are even trends that emerge within our circle that can cause one to suddenly feel like they want to rush out and purchase a garment or accessory that they had never previously felt pulled towards. By the same token, you may discover an item on your own that you had never felt drawn to before, but suddenly feel as though there is a gapping hole in your closet without.

Add to that the fact that for most of us, our wardrobes are continuous works in progress, especially if you're relatively new to sporting vintage, and it stands to reason that almost no one will have an example of every possible type of relatively common vintage garment to hand. You might need a second house just to store your clothes and accessories in if you did! (Mmmm, such an appealing thought...What's that? Sorry, got lost in a vintage wardrobe daydream for a second. :D)

I madly adore clothing, especially that of a vintage, reproduction or vintage appropriate nature, and take great pleasure in growing my wardrobe, making the most of my modest fashion dollars (be sure to see this post for some great tips on that front), and continually expanding the amount of variety on my hangers.

At this point in time, there is objectively not many areas of my vintage wardrobe that are particularly lacking. It would be lovely to own more of some types of garments and accessories of course, but I won't run the risk of finding myself clothing-less any time soon and I'm very grateful for that fact. It took me many years, a lot of dedicated searching, and no shortage of patience to reach this point and to have the highly currated vintage filled closet that I do.

Yet, chalked full though it may be (if we're talking my actual closet that is, which is about the size of a matchbox; great for creating disciplined wardrobe editing, not so fabulous for having room to expand your clothing collection!), there are certainly some vintage items that I don't yet own, or which for the reasons touched on above, I've opted not to purchase. I should mention that I'm talking about items from, or that look the part of, the 1940s and 50s, as these are the decades I sport most frequently and thus have centered my wardrobe around. Obviously, as I don't usually wear 1920s, 30s, 60s, or 70s styles, there will be many pieces from those eras that are not accounted for in my closet.

I thought you guys might be interested to know what some of the pieces that fall into that camp are, so without further ado, may I present a list of seven different vintage garments and accessories that I do not currently own (and the reasons why such is the case).

1. 49er Jacket

A truly iconic mid-century garment (that is still in production to this day), the Pendleton 49er jacket (so called because the women's version first debuted in 1949) sprang to life in the wake of WW2, when many women working in the war effort sported oversized plaid shirts that they borrowed from the closets of the men in their life (or just went out and bought for themselves to begin with). Made of warm, high quality wool and produced in scores of different plaid colour combos over the years, the 49er remains a firm favourite amongst vintage fashionistas because it's both cozy and does a great job of providing you with a mid-century casual jacket that can be worn just about anywhere.

Visually, I adore 49ers to no end, however as I'm very allergic to wool (wearing it against my skin usually causes me to bust out in hives in a matter of minutes), I've sadly had to stay at arm's length from these checkered classics. One day, if possible, I would love to commission a seamstress to make me a 49er style jacket out of a non-wool plaid fabric so that I could finally sport this style of vintage garment, too. Until then, I will continue to just make due with my lovely assortment of plaid shirts.

2. Fedora hat

Though by far a style that is most commonly associated with gents, long before they came back into vogue with hipsters and trendy gals in recent years, fedoras had their place in the hearts and wardrobes of many a chic woman in the 1930s and 40s. This sprang in part from their popularity with stars such as Marlene Dietrich (pictured above) and Katharine Hepburn, but also from a general trend towards, what at the time were called "mannish styles" that was widespread in the fashion world at the time.

My own lack of a vintage ladies fedora stems simply for the fact that I've yet to encounter any in person that didn't cost the moon and haven't tried my luck with sourcing one online. The older I get, the more this style of hat appeals to me though, so I could certainly see myself doing so in the not too distant future.

3. Genuine 1940s shoes

At the risk of sounding like a broken record to those who have been longtime readers of my blog, I have somewhat hard to fit feet (they have unusually high arches, are slightly uneven sized, and often fall between a regular and wide width in many brands), which just happen to a modern size 8 (occasionally I can squeeze into a 7.5, or conversely, need to go up half a size to 8.5 - all this despite the fact that visually, it looks like I'm about a 6.5). This combo, paired further with the fact that there are no vintage clothing stores in town, means that finding genuine 1940s (or 1950s) shoes is a challenge (I use the word "genuine" here to distinguish such shoes from more modern footwear that either looks the 40s part on purpose, as in the case of vintage reproduction shoes, or simply have vintage appropriate styling to them).

I know from past experience (with modern and repro styles) that ordering shoes online does usually not end favorably for me, so I've held off on investing in a pair of genuine 1940s shoes until I come across some in person that fit both my feet and ideally my budget, too. With mid-century footwear becoming harder and harder to find with each passing year, I know that it might be a bit of tall order, but I always like to be optimistic and like to believe I'll slip my tootsies into a pair of real, honest to goodness forties shoes one of these days!

4. Vintage swimsuit

Now, to be fair, I don't have a modern one at present either. Believe me when I say that the way my body looks in the type of clothes I wear and how it appears in something as unforgiving as a bathing suit are two vastly different things. Though I've had vintage swimsuits at various points in time, I rarely kept them long (always selling or giving them away to friends) because I'd yet to find one that fits me just right.

Couple this with the fact that some of my medical conditions keep me from being able to do much swimming (I pay dearly for weeks afterwards if I do - a mistake I only had to make once to realize that it's best for me to stay curled on the beach come summer) and that I don't like wearing overly revealing clothing to begin with, and it's not all that big of a surprise that I don't have a swimsuit.

That said, it is a practical garment, even if it's not a terribly flattering one on me, so chances are I'll pick up a vintage or repro swimsuit sometime in the coming months before summer triumphantly returns again.

5. Swing coat

As much as I like the elegant, classic shape of swing coats (especially those that are quite long), they aren't usually terribly kind to my short, curvy figure in the slightest. Princess coats however are whole 'nother matter! Their tailored lines and nipped waist seem to be custom made for my body body, so when Old Man Winter comes calling each year, I reach for vintage princess coats without fail.

I'm not entirely excluding the possibility of owning a swing coat, and I have always wanted a hip length "teddy bear fur" sandy caramel hued one, but at present I'm more than content with my pretty princess coats and suspect they'll always be the number one choice in my books when it comes to old school outerwear (even my vintage raincoat has princess lines to it :)).

6. Playsuit

Playsuits are super cute, super practical, and super fun, and yet, the fact that they often involve baring your knees, upper arms, and/or midriff (not three of my favourite parts of my body in the slightest!) means I approach these charming summer garments with great caution. I admire them on other people, praise their practicality, and swoon over old school examples of them, but for now my closet is woefully playsuit-less until I find one that lets me remain fairly covered up, but still have the versatility that comes with mix-and-match summertime separates of the sort that only playsuits deliver.

7. Penny loafers

I thought I'd finally crossed this vintage fashion staple off of my list last spring when I purchased a pair in near pristine condition at a yard sale for $5.00. Once I got home and attempted to get my footies into them however, they turned out to be too narrow to really even get on at all. *Sigh* The hunt will continue though, as I love the preppy meets casual meets collegiate look of classic penny loafers and would absolute welcome the chance to expand my shoe wardrobe with a pair at long, long last!

{To learn more about a specific image, please click on it to be taken to its respective source.}

♥ ♥ ♥

Naturally, this is not an exhaustive list of all the possible vintage pieces I could, but do not precisely, own from the decades I hold nearest and dearest to my heart. Instead I opted to focus on pieces that are fairly common amongst the marvelous vintage fashionistas in our spheres and yet are no where to be seen in my dresser drawers or in my vintage outfit blog posts.

As time goes on, I would love to add those that do work for my body type (and sensitive skin!) to my wardrobe, just as would those that still remain (and others that have since been added to) my vintage fashion wishlist. Part of the greatest thrill of wearing vintage for me has always been the hunt, and the actual moment of discovery itself, so I don't usually mind it when there are items, be they commonplace, obscure or anywhere in between, that I'm able to search the web and offline world alike for – no matter how long it takes to find a winner!

What, my sweet dears, are some seemingly commonplace vintage items that most folks own, but which you don't currently have a single one of? Are any of them the same as the entries on my list?

It will be interesting to see, looking back in say, five or ten years, how many (again, of the ones I am hankering for) of these pieces have joined the ranks in my closet, and how many are still as elusive as the likelihood of unearthing a 1950s Dior suit at a thrift store. Only time, and perhaps a future follow-up post in a few years will tell!

Embracing controversy, getting real about blogging, and tons on vintage fashion: an interview with Emileigh from Flashback Summer

One of my favourite types of posts to share with all of you here, and one that I know many of you enjoy a great deal as well (the results of last year's Chronically Vintage reader's survey told me as much :)) is interviews with fellow members of the vintage community.
 
Today I'm elated to do just that in the form of a wonderful interview conducted via email that I recently had with Emileigh Rogers from the engaging and always enjoyable vintage fashion, crafting and lifestyle blog, Flashback Summer.





Emileigh is a passion young blogger from the States who loves the past, traveling, speaking her mind, her family, 1930s and 40s fashions (in particular), and never shying away from posting topics that act as springboards for some of the more controversial subjects in our vintage loving midst.


I've had the great pleasure of knowing her since her blog's earliest days and feel honoured that I got the opportunity to learn, and share, more about her with all of you today.


 
When you think of your blog, what are five adjectives about it that instantly spring to mind?


Intercultural – honest – worldview – vintage – conversation (These aren’t exactly adjectives… but they describe my blog still!)



You've been blogging since 2012, what are some of the most unexpected things you've learned over the course of that time?

Quite honestly, I only started blogging to drive sales to my Etsy shop, and it's still a dream of mine to be able to make some decent money from blogging and writing. However, I’ve been surprised at how much I actually love blogging itself and the community around it. I don’t even have an Etsy shop now, but I still have a blog! Although some moolah to support my vintage habit is a motivator, the fact that I have enjoyed getting to know other vintage wearers, learn a lot, and get to express myself is the motivation that gets me through the difficult blogging times.



If you could go back in time and give yourself just one piece of advice that you (now) wish you'd known as a novice blogger, what would it be?

I would tell myself not to try to be Solanah (from Vixen Vintage and American Threads), or any other blogger. I love Solanah’s blogs, but I’m not her! I first attempted to recreate such a blog and realized I was miserably short on vintage clothes… kinda a staple for a vintage blog. So I stopped and regrouped for a while, thinking about what MY blog would really be about, one that filled a gap in the vintage blog world. I then relaunched my blog later into what is now Flashback Summer!




On Flashback Summer, you never shy away from discussing topics that might stir up some friendly debate (such as whether or not to alter/remake genuine vintage garments, as well as numerous posts pertaining to different potentially culture sensitive topics including racism in vintage prints and jewelry, what drives your desire to get people thinking and talking about subjects that might, so to speak, rock the boat?

I love deep conversations and hearing different viewpoints, if it’s done in a constructive and respectful way. I sometimes feel like the vintage world can be very 2D and superficial, and I wanted to bring the depth to the blog world that I know exists in vintage wearers’ real lives. We’re from all over the world, and working through tough subjects with each other can open our minds to new lines of thought and celebrate the diversity that is the vintage community. I love that!



What are some of the posts that you've most enjoyed sharing on your blog to date?

I have really enjoyed the controversial posts. Like I said before, I love hearing others’ viewpoints. I also really like the Intercultural Vintage posts. I adore studying the traditional clothing of other countries, and when it dawned on me that, technically, traditional equals vintage oftentimes, I knew I had to include it! Cultures have borrowed bits of fashion from each other since the beginning of time, and I like tracking down where certain style influences have come from and the effect of cultures on each other.




Do you feel like your online self and your offline self are quite similar or are there elements of your offline self that rarely appear on your blog? (I find this to be true for myself big time!)
I think my online self and offline self are pretty similar. I’m a fact-loving, culture-studying vintager in real life, too, so my blog expresses some of my biggest passions in life. I think the only things that are different are that I’m more sarcastic and dry-humored offline simply because that doesn’t translate as well to the written word.

I’m also more controversial offline, but I only become more blunt and bring up very difficult topics in the context of relationships where I feel I’ve earned the right to speak. It’s too easy to be completely misunderstood online for me to feel comfortable sharing some of my opinions on very difficult subjects on my blog. Relationship creates a lot of grace and benefit of the doubt in times of disagreement that the internet doesn’t always provide.


For those who may be new(ish) to vintage, what are some of your top tips for sporting old school styles?

I would definitely start with classic pieces like a button down and high waisted pencil skirt. I tried to add in a bunch of vintage clothing all at the beginning, and it was expensive and frustrating as I tried to figure out the trends of decades, bought wrong sizes, etc. Start with a button down and pencil skirt and change your hair, makeup, and accessories to suit different decades. This is a low-cost way to experiment with your style to find something you love. Then you can invest in those statement pieces you know you’ll like longer term. I wish I had done this!




What decades in time are you currently finding your wardrobe most pulled towards?


The 1930s and 40s are what it’s about right now! I have pretty much always been drawn to these, though I’m exploring the 1930s more than I used to. I also have a weakness for a nipped-waist 50s suit that gets thrown in every once in a while, too!



Is there one or more decade that you love the fashions (et al) from but don't often, if ever wear?

I adore the 10s and 20s, but I hardly ever wear them. They tend to be the rarer, more expensive pieces or completely impractical for modern life. I LOVE the Gibson girl look, but it’s a bit much for the modern-day office!






Where are some of your favourite sources (online or off) from which to source vintage fashions and accessories?

Around my area there are two vintage stores, one of which doesn’t sell anything earlier than 1960, and the other is a bit expensive and mostly newer things as well. Because of this, I find a LOT of my clothes at flea markets/antique malls. EVERY Missouri/Arkansas town has at least one flea market, so I go on the hunt and see what I can find!



Are you a vintage purist in terms of preferring to only wear genuine vintage pieces or do you like to mix things up and wear repro, vintage inspired and similar classic pieces as well?

I would love to wear only vintage pieces, but my budget doesn’t allow it. To wear vintage every day you really have to have a lot of vintage so as not to damage things with overuse, and I just can’t swing that! Almost my whole wardrobe is now made of authentic vintage and pieces I have made myself from vintage patterns. Making things myself has proven to be cost-effective and lets me wear custom designs I love!




You recently got married (happy congrats again!) with a vintage themed wedding and shared some of the wonderful highlights of your special day on your blog. Did you find the online world to be helpful to you in planning your big day? If so, what sites in particular did you turn to often for inspiration, help, etc?

Thank you, Jessica! I found the online world a bit helpful in planning my wedding, but mostly for tracking down musicians, venues, etc. that were available in my area. I kind of looked at Pinterest, but I hate the idea of simply copying things I find off of there, so I really tried to use my own brain and creativity to come up with original, unique things that would work. I also asked my creative friends to help with different pieces of it, so they each brought their own skills to the table!



Have you found that anything on your blog or your approach to blogging has changed since you tied the knot?

I do know that my husband helps me take a lot more pictures now! It’s much handier photo-wise to live in the same house with him! Other than that, I don’t think my blogging has changed very much. Jacob is very understanding about my blog ambitions and very supportive.




What do you wish people knew about you and/or your blog (that's you're comfortable sharing publicly, naturally) that they don't already?

I know that other bloggers probably understand this, but I don't think people realize how much work it is to keep a blog up! I'm working on learning to balance the different areas of my life a little better right now, and while I'm trying to be intentional about creating good content, sometimes it's a struggle in the midst of responsibilities. But I do really enjoy it, so I want to keep at it!



Thinking ahead to the future, what would be your ultimate dream/goal for your blog?

I have other life ambitions, but if those for some reason fell through, I'd love to blog as my "day job." For me it's really not about making lots of money, it's about being freed up to do the things I love all the time... because what I love to do generates income! However, I'm thinking that other life events are going to take precedence eventually, so I'd like to work my hardest to create a great blog that I can be proud of until that time.




What kinds of things (topics, types of outfit or how-to posts, etc) are you looking forward to posting about on Flashback Summer this year?

I am really excited that my sister is contributing to the blog this year with holistic health types of posts. She will be talking about physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual health. I thoroughly enjoy her writing and I know she has so much wisdom, especially at only 21 years old, to share with the world. I’d describe her as a hippie Yoda because of that.

(Jessica's note) You can also connect with Emileigh on the following sites:

Facebook

Instagram

Pinterest

Twitter

{All images care of Flashback Summer}

♥ ♥ ♥

Thank you very much for this stellar interview, Emileigh. I really appreciate that you wanted to chat with me and must say again how lovely it was to get to know you and your blog even better through this fun Q&A session.

If you're not following Flashback Summer (how charming is that name, BTW!) already, I can't recommend doing so highly enough. Emileigh has a wonderful vision for her site, posts often and on a diverse range of subjects, and is a truly lovely person.

You'll adore her blog, her candor, her gorgeous vintage outfits, her whit and her instantly recognizable passion for the past, and quickly find yourself looking forward to each her new posts as much as I, and her ever growing throngs of readers, do.

How to build a vintage wardrobe on a budget

One of the most frequently asked questions that I receive is how one can can go about wearing vintage on a modest budget. As someone who lives on a strict budget myself, knows the value of a dollar something fierce, and believes deeply in making wise financial choices, this is a subject that's very near and dear to my heart. I've discussed it before in various posts over the years, such as 2012's Five ways to make your vintage wardrobe dollars go further, but with the tax season underway once more - a time when many of us tighten the reins on our spending significantly - now seemed like a great moment to delve into the topic again.

Though this question often comes from those who are just starting to wear vintage, or wear it on a more frequent basis, I believe that the following points will resonate deeply with most of us in the vintage fashion world, whether we're greenhorns or sourdoughs (to borrow one of my favourite terms from the Klondike gold rush days). Good financial advice and common sense serve us all well, no matter if we're on the budget of a humble student or a royal princess.

Before you spend a dime

{Image source}

First of all, you need to access your wardrobe in its current state, exactly as it is today. Is it chock-a-block full of nothing but trendy modern pieces? Are there some classic basics in the mix? Is it geared more towards spring summer/fall winter? Do you already own a certain amount of vintage, repro or vintage appropriate garments? (For tons of tips on how to get started with wearing and buying vintage appropriate clothes, be sure to see this post on the subject.)

Are you looking to transition your wardrobe into one comprised largely, or even entirely, of vintage pieces, or do you plan on keeping some modern ones as well? It's up to you and there's no right or wrong here. It grinds my gears something fierce that a certain attitude crops up sometimes in the vintage fashion world that says that if someone loves vintage fashion, they have to wear it all the time. It's not a uniform, it's a genre of clothing and you're free to wear it however often you want. If that means 24/7/365, awesome! If it means just on the weekends, when the mood strikes, the vast majority of the time, or any of other percentage of your days, that's absolutely a-okay as well.

Your wardrobe is not a job. It's not a burden, and goodness knows, it shouldn't cause you stress. It should be a joy - something that you wake up excited to greet when you through open the closet door in the morning, not a source of serious worry or pressure.

Whether you take all of your clothing out and lay it out to see, or just carefully study what's dangling on your hangers and folded in your drawers, write down or make a mental list of the pieces that you feel already work well for your own particular vintage style. Truly take a few moments with each piece, no matter how big (coats, dresses, pants, etc) or small (jewelry, scarves, hair accessories, etc), and examine it. How modern does it look? Conversely, how vintage is it or does it look? Could it be altered and/or styled to help give it a greater sense of the decade you're after?

Even if nothing, or almost nothing, that you currently own is vintage or looks the part, that doesn't mean you should donate the whole lot to Goodwill right this very moment by any means. This post is all about wearing vintage on a budget, and unless you're in a very good spot financially, chances are you won't be able to ditch one wardrobe and purchase another overnight. I would argue even if you did have the means to do so, you would miss out on a great deal of the fun that comes from shopping for vintage pieces and constructing a beloved wardrobe over time.

Let's assume for the sake of example, that you've gone over your current wardrobe with a fine tooth comb and have a few pieces that are either vintage, repro, or vintage appropriate already (and let's further assume that they fit you well, are in good shape, and that you love them). What are these pieces? Are they almost all variations of the same garment? Do some or all of them work together or are they hodgepodge of lovely pieces that don't really go with one another at all?

Next, think about the kind of lifestyle that you live and what types of clothing are best suited to it. Every gals needs at least a few fancy, extra special occasion pieces in her wardrobe, but if you're a stay-at-home mom, recently retired empty nester, active sportswomen or busy college student, it might not be too practical to stock your closet with little else but evening dresses and toweringly high heels, especially if you're just getting started with wearing vintage.

Do not confuse practicality with being boring, the two needn't ever be on in the same, if you shop for pieces that you love and which work well for your lifestyle. Think about the kinds of garments you wear most often, the colours you love best, what sort of climate you live in, if you travel often, if time consuming types of laundering or dry cleaning are going to be an issue for you, and if you plan to work towards a wardrobe that's all (or almost all) vintage/repro/vintage appropriate.

Once you've accessed your current wardrobe, thought about the types of garments need need (and which - and this is an important point - are becoming on you), and have a firm grasp on what decade (or decades) of vintage fashion you want to sport, you're ready to start shopping.

Show me the money!

{Image source}

First of all, let's take a moment to stop and determine what your current budget is. Most of us have at least a moderately fixed amount of income that pour in each month. It may be variable, but unless you've recently experienced some major life changes (job loss, new job, gone from a two income family to a single income one, inherited a sizable amount of money, etc), chances are you can at least ballpark how much you earn and what percentage of that money you'd like to put towards your wardrobe in a given month (or year, depending on your personal shopping habits).

This number is not set in stone for the rest of time. In all likelihood, it will fluctuate over the course of time, but whether it's $25, $100, $250, $500 or more per month, believe me when I say, knowing what you have to work with, instead of spending on the fly and hoping your purchase doesn't put you in the red, is such an important element of responsible money management, as well as long term wardrobe planning.

By thinking ahead to the amount of funds that you have not only in a given month, but for a season, half a year, or even a full year, you can better decide how you want to spend throughout the coming months. If you know that this is the year you're going to invest in a new vintage winter coat, it might be a good idea to put aside some or even all of your monthly clothing allowance for a while, until you've saved up the amount you need to make your purchase wisely, without having to rely on credit.

I'm not going to sit here and say I've never spent beyond my means in a given month, I have, but the older I get, the more I try very, very hard not to do so. I loath debt and love it when I can spend within my means and not have to stress about credit card bills, overdrafts, or if the money I spent on clothes should have gone towards something more urgent.

There may be times when spending beyond your monthly means makes sense, such as for an investment piece that you truly need, but try to only do so if you know for certain that you'll have the funds in your budget to pay off the item quickly in the coming weeks or months. Buying a $300 coat on your credit card today because it was on sale, may not end up being such a great deal in the long run if you incur $100, $200 or more in interest over time on it, because you bought it on credit.

When it comes to clothes shopping, as with all elements of life as an adult, you need to be your own accountant and banker. Ultimately, only you know what the right amount of money to set as your budget each month is, within the scope of what you and your family (if applicable) can comfortably afford. Do no sacrifice long term financial goals just to have a big wardrobe, it's not worth it for one red second, no matter how much you love fashion.

Once you have your budget in place, don't be afraid to look for ways to supplement it, if you feel it's on the particularly modest side. This could be selling/consigning some of your existing clothing, launching an etsy shop of any type that applies to your interest and talents, holding an annual yard sale, doing odd jobs on the side, dog walking, or any other (legal, of course!) way that you can think of generate a bit more income, if so desired.

There is no right or wrong budget for vintage clothing. Believe me, goodness, believe me when I say that I fully understand how, at times, it can seem like some of those in our circle are on almost non-stop shopping spree, whereas you're struggling to come up with $25 a month to spend on your wardrobe. It's easy to become disheartened with you're in the spot, but I encourage you to live for yourself and within your means.

You don't know the details of that other woman's life. She could be $30,000 in debt because of her spending. She may have a great job, live at home still, and have almost no bills (or debts) or other financial concerns to worry about. Maybe she buys, wears for a while, and quickly flips her clothing. She could be a professional vintage seller who has access to a large amount of yesteryear clothing and just keeps the pieces she finds for a song that she loves most for her own wardrobe. She might have been in your very shoes for many years and is just now able to start spending more because her circumstances changes. You truly never know. It's easy to judge or grow envious, but doing so gets you absolutely no where and isn't the healthiest or happiest of mindsets at all. Focus on yourself, your budget, your wardrobe and your life and you'll be on the right track.

Climb every mountain

{Image source}

 

While some of us are fortunate to live in a city with one or more vintage store that sell mid-century pieces, a fairly substantial number of us (myself included) do not. Though nothing beats trying on clothing in person, thanks to the good, 'ol interwebs, you are never more than a mouse click away from a world of vintage clothing.

In either case however, price is often an issue. Many brick and mortar vintage, secondhand, and antique stores are highly aware of the demand for the items they're offering and price accordingly, some go even further, specializing only (or nearly only) in high end items. For those who are looking to stretch their dollar, such shops can often feel discouraging or like a waste of time. Some may be beyond the scope of your current budget, but most will hold sales at least a couple of times of a year, and all are a great place to get a feel for what kinds of vintage items you may hope to find elsewhere, so don't turn your nose up at them immediately.


Certain vintage stores are more reasonably priced than others, both online (in the case of etsy and eBay shops) and off, and these are the ones you'll want to gravitate towards most of the time. Visit every vintage, secondhand, antique, consignment and used clothing store in your town and/or surrounding area, if applicable/feasible. Chat with the sales clerks, or if possible, the shop owner. Let them know that you love vintage clothing, what you're looking for, and that you're always open to scoring a great deal (aka, ask them when their next sale is going to be).

I have a business card for Chronically Vintage, which I leave with nearly all vintage and secondhand clothing sellers I encounter. I let people know that they contact me anytime if they have well priced items I might be interested in, and often maintain a rapport with such sellers throughout the year by visiting their shops, making purchases, and mentioning in some cases that I'm offering them free publicity on my blog by linking to them when I wear an item I bought from their shop in one of my vintage outfits (note: I do not, and would never, say this so as to try and entice someone to offer me a bargain, it's simply a friendly way of showing kindness in the hopes that it will in turn be shown to you one day).

As time goes on, mid-century vintage is getting harder and harder to find at reasonable prices both online and off. I fully acknowledge this point and know it all too well firsthand, but I can also attest to the fact that vintage bargains do still exist. Yard sales, flea markets, thrift (charity/op) shops, auctions, estate sales, clothing swaps, local classifieds (newspapers, Craigslist, Kijiji, etc) and eBay (and to a lesser extent, etsy and elsewhere online) can all still deliver a good deal sometimes. Patience, timing, using a wide range of search keywords (for more on how to make keywords really work for you, see this post), and a bit of luck will all go a long way towards helping you get the most bang for your hard earned buck.

Just as it never hurts to let those with applicable shops know who you are and what you're looking for, don't be afraid to let the people in your life know about your love of vintage clothing either. From relatives to friends, coworkers to classmates, members of your place of worship to your hairdresser, local junk dealer (yes, they still exist in some communities), elderly neighbours or those on your softball team, it’s a good idea to simply share that you love, and wear, vintage clothing with such folks. I have been blessed to receive several fantastic gifts, completely for free, over the years because someone either had vintage items they no longer wanted or knew someone else who did, and passed them along to me.

Many people who are not into vintage themselves and have no desire to try and sell items online, are often all too happy to give things away or sell them for pennies on the dollar, so long as they know they're going to a home where these pieces will be loved and appreciated. In some cases, you may even be doing someone a favour, as they might not have space to store the items, need to downsize, or are getting rid of things after a loved one passed away. If someone gives you something as a gift, be sure to thank them with a email, letter, or small present in turn for their thoughtful generosity.

I've said it before, but I'll say it again, when it comes to sourcing vintage clothing, leave no stone unturned, nor avenue unexplored. The world, thankfully, still houses a substantial amount of vintage items, and there are some well priced pieces out there just waiting for you to find them.

To the dressing room!

{Image source} 

Okay, so you know what you want/need, you've got your budget in place, you are aware of what your area has (or doesn't have) to offer in terms of local shopping options, you've spent time looking for vintage clothing online and now you're ready to start shopping.

When you're new to vintage, it can be tempting - and all too easy - to just start buying anything from your favourite decade in your size, simply because it's old and will fit. I get this for sure, but shopping with a plan in place and a list of items you need to help your wardrobe blossom is a far smarter approach, and one that's likely to lead to much less buyer's remorse in the long run.

If you're looking for wardrobe basis, don't be afraid to explore vintage appropriate options. Many can do a stellar job of looking the part of vintage, but may cost you substantially less. I am not biased at all on this front, and believe firmly in the power of utilizing ever avenue your have at your disposal to build a wardrobe that allows you to put together vintage looks, whether all of the pieces included in them are true vintage or not.

Classic pieces aren't called classic for no reason. There are items on the market that are, in some cases, almost indistinguishable from the same versions of them that existed 50, 60, even 70 or more years ago. Five examples would be: traditionally styled pearl jewelry, saddle shoes, leather driving gloves, fitted cardigans, and pencil skirts that hit below the knee. I'm not saying they're dead ringers. Fabrics, styles, cuts and construction techniques can, and do, change over time, but the overall look of some of these kinds of pieces (and many other fashion classics) makes them no-brainers for the vintage lover on a budget.

When you find a vintage piece you love, but which is beyond your budget or what you're comfortable spending on one garment. Go searching (online and off) to see if you can find something similar for a fraction of the price. I've done this time and time again over the years and it has lead to some of my best bargains and most beloved items of clothing.

I know that there is a certain "keeping up with the Joneses" mentality in the vintage and repro world, much as there is (heavily) in the fashion realm as a whole, but remember that you don't have to break the bank to be stylish or happy.

One of the greatest joys of vintage clothing is that, often, it affords you the chance to build a wardrobe of pieces that are unlike those that anyone else is wearing today. Savour the individuality of vintage fashion and the fact that it gives you an incredible sartorial voice all your own.

It's totally okay to buy repro and popular vintage appropriate pieces (such as those on sites like Modcloth), but don't feel like you have to stock your wardrobe with nothing but repro or the same kinds of styles of vintage clothing that your favourite bloggers are wearing. Be your own muse, no matter your budget.

Seven quick tips for building a vintage wardrobe on a budget

{Image source}

 

-Hit every thrift store sale you possibly can. Ditto for yard sales, flea markets (swap meets), and estate sales (not all estate sales offer bargains, but sometimes you can really luck out on vintage deals there). Don't shop buy just for the sake of it, but rather use these discounted clothing sources to help you pick up some of the items that your wardrobe is missing/needs more.

-Mix genuine vintage with repro and vintage appropriate pieces. We've covered this above, but it warrants saying again, because I truly believe it's one of the most cost effective ways to build (and keep growing) your vintage wardrobe. Should you happen to sew and/or knit (which, unfortunately, I do not), be sure to include homemade garments into the mix, too. They're repro that you make at home yourself - talk about handy and awesome!

-Make the genuine vintage or repro piece you're wearing the star of the show in your outfit. Compliment it, if so desired, with vintage hair and make-up, to further create a period appropriate look, if that's what you're in the mood for.

-Host a clothing swap with your friends and/or relatives. Even if the people you invite aren't into vintage, they might have some vintage appropriate pieces amongst their offerings that would work wonders for your own wardrobe (while at the same time helping you unload some of the garments that you're no longer wearing).

-Accessories are your hard working, wardrobe expanding friends! Our foremothers know this well, and it's an approach to dressing that can help stretch your wardrobe something fierce. Think costume jewelry, scarves, shoe clips, gloves, hats, wraps, handbags, dress clips, stockings, and shoes themselves as a means of stretching the number of outfits you can get out of your vintage clothing.

-Ask for clothing (or gift certificates for places you love that sell clothing) for your birthday, holidays, or anytime someone wants to give you gift of your choosing. I do this each year for my birthday and Christmas with my parents, usually put the birthday money my dear maternal grandma gives me towards my wardrobe, and have long instilled in my sweet husband that clothes (or gift certificates for them) are always a winning, hugely appreciated presents for any occasion. I've been able to splurge on some of my favourite investment pieces over the years (such as my wonderful Jitterbuggin pinafore dress) because of thoughtful monetary gifts from loved ones.

-Embrace the fact that, like Rome, most vintage wardrobes are not built in a day. I completely get it. You want to have a super swoon-worthy vintage wardrobe right this very instant, but good things take time. My moderately sized wardrobe is rife with garments I love, that fit me well, are in good shape, and often coordinate well with one another, and it took years to get to this stage. I have spent more hours than I could ever count scouring eBay and etsy for deals, visiting thrift stores (and yard sales), and saving up funds, when needed, to purchase bigger ticket items only when I could do so in financially responsible way.

One's wardrobe is a never-ending work in progress, and there will always been pieces that I want or need to add to mine, and in each instance, I'll do so with my budget at the forefront of my mind. The thrill of the hunt - of finding a killer deal - is a ton of the fun of vintage shopping for me, as I know it for many others as well. Enjoy the process - you'll likely never start from scratch again (unless your weight shifts dramatically, and even then, you'll still be able to hold onto some items such as hats, jewelry and possibly shoes), so savour these formative days while they're here.

Now what?

{Image source}

 

As your vintage wardrobe continues to expand, go back periodically and access what its strengths and weaknesses are. What are the glaring wardrobe gaps that you'd like to fill in the coming months? Are there any pieces that you no longer like, that don’t fit, or which you've otherwise have changed your mind about? Why not sell them online (or locally, if applicable) and put that money towards buying something that you want or need more in the moment.

Though it can be (very!) hard to part with vintage clothing, if it just isn't right for you and you're not going to keep it as a display/collectors piece, it is better to pass it on to the next owner, who can hopefully give it just the kind of love it deserves. I've sold many vintage garments and accessories from my personal wardrobe over the years, and am certain I'll continue to as time goes on. Some pieces will remain in my closet, I believe, for the rest of my days, but others are shorter term visitors, whom I'll remember fondly, but am happy to see bring joy to another vintage fashion lover when I say good-bye to them.

Keep your wardrobe in good order. By this I mean, both well organized (no one wants to have to buy a third basic black skirt because you couldn't find the two they already own) and in tip-top shape from a mending and tailoring standpoint. Small issues such as loose buttons, dropped hems, or tiny holes can often be remedied in just a few minutes for little to no cost at home. By nipping such problems in the bud as they occur, your garments will last longer, thus cutting down the number of new pieces you need to buy, thereby saving you money in the long run.

As time goes on, and your wardrobe blossoms, you may find you need to shop for a smaller number of pieces each year. You might also notice, that if such is the case, you have more money to spend on the individual items that you do buy, and can then start looking more towards some of the vintage investment pieces you've been daydreaming about for quite some time now.

Your personal style and your wardrobe will likely always continue to expand over time. You may be crazy for the fifties for a few years then decide that you're all about the 1930s for the next two, before heading into a phase where it's all sixties, all the time. Some items will see you through multiple decades that you enjoy wearing, others will work best in the context of their respective time frame, but all will be a magnificent part of your collective vintage wardrobe that you built with love, forethought and sound budgeting. With a bit time and effort, before you know it, you'll have the kind vintage wardrobe that inspires others who see you to want to start their own.

A beginner’s guide to buying and wearing vintage appropriate clothes

A couple of months ago in a comment left on one of my vintage outfit posts (this cute 1950s novelty print skirt to be exact), a lovely reader named Dolly asked, “Have you ever written a post on how to shop for modern clothes and make them look vintage?"


The short answer is, no, I haven't. Not until today that is! While the subject of shopping for vintage appropriate modern pieces is certainly something that I've touched on in numerous posts over the years, to the best of my recollection, I haven't devoted a piece solely to the topic of how to select modern clothes that have a distinctly vintage vibe to them.

As I love answering your questions and helping others embark on their own vintage wearing journeys (which is what our lovely question asker Dolly is doing), today, before we really get into the thick of the holiday season, I wanted to take a stab at tackling this excellent query.

This however, is not a cut and dry topic, and I'm sure that there are many different opinions on this interesting point (which of course you're encouraged to share in the comment section). As such, I'm going to tell you how I shop for vintage appropriate modern pieces and provide some tips that I believe can benefit anyone who wants to, or already enjoys doing, the same.




{A summery gingham example of an outfit, which like many I wear, combines vintage and modern vintage appropriate pieces together. For the exact outfit details – including which pieces are new and which are vintage – see the original post from last Canada Day.}


While many of us have been wearing vintage for years or even decades, and shopping for pieces (be they vintage, reproduction, or modern) that fit our personal styles has become second nature, it's important not to forget that there are lots of folks out there who are just starting to get into vintage, who may need some guidance, or who are are looking for a bit of a refresher course if they've been away from the vintage scene for a while.

This post was written with these categories of people in mind, but the suggestions and advice offered herein certainly apply to everyone who enjoys wearing vintage styles.


Determining what decade or decades you want to emulate


First of all, if you're just starting out with wearing vintage, it can help to have one or more specific decades in mind that you want to emulate the looks of. I, as many of you know, wear fashions from the 1940s and 50s, two decades which are very popular amongst vintage clothing fans. However, you may feel your passion lies in the roaring twenties, swinging sixties, or any other twentieth century decade (for the sake of this post, we'll assume you're picking a decade from the last century).

Often times vintage fans enjoy wearing styles from multiple decades, and many of us tend to be drawn to two (or more) decades that touch one another, such as the 20s and 30s, 30s and 40s, 40s and 50s, or 50s and 60s. Others however, enjoy sporting fashions from a wide range of periods, and may mix fashions from different decades in the same outfit, or stick to one decade per ensemble.

The choice is completely up to you, and while some people are steadfast devotes to a certain era, crafting their whole wardrobes around the years they love best (which there is absolutely nothing wrong with in the least - it takes a lot of work, knowledge and dedication to commit to one distinct period/look all the time), you may find that you'd prefer to sport styles from various decades in the same outfit.

Today however, we're going to assume that you're interested in wearing clothes that are appropriate to one decade (or small group of years that shared similar fashions, such as the late 40s into the early 50s) per outfit, and that you already know what decade (or decades) it is that you're passionate about.

Chances are, even if you're a complete greenhorn when it comes to wearing vintage, you have a general sense of the fashions that are associated with each decade of the twentieth century and probably feel like one or more of those time periods are calling your name.

However, just as enjoying food doesn't automatically make you a skilled cook, so too does take research and time to hone your ability to pinpoint styles from certain eras and to develop a sense of how to put together a period appropriate look and how to date pieces (this doesn't mean you take you clothes out for dinner and movie, instead "dating clothes" means that you have the knowledge to look at a piece and know when, give or take a few years at most, it was most likely originally created and in fashion).

This is a topic that really is a post (if not a whole book!) unto itself, but for those who are looking to better study and understand the fashions of certain various decades, I highly recommend checking out the images on sites such as Wikipedia, Flickr, Pinterst (I have Pinterst boards devoted to all the eras of the twentieth century, as there are tons of other Pinterest users with historically related boards there, too), Tumblr, the Life Magazie achieves, The Costume Gallery, Glamour Daze, Fashion Era, other vintage fashion related blogs (you'll find lots on my blog links page), and videos on Youtube.

In addition, knowledge and inspiration can be gained from a great many books (modern and vintage), yesteryear magazines, movies, sewing pattern sleeve art, and of course old photographs.


Getting started & examples of timeless wardrobe choices

Let’s assume that you have a favourite decade and you want to wear the looks of that time frame. No doubt you'll be interested in sporting genuine vintage pieces, however these can sometimes be expensive, hard to find in certain sizes, and tricky to track down in person (especially if you live in a small town).

Online vintage shopping is a terrific option, and one I avail often myself, but there are times when you may want to shop in person, and/or really need to keep your budget in mind (vintage bargains can be had online, especially if you're patient, just as they can off line at thrift stores, yard sales, flea markets, car boot sales, op shops, etc sometimes, don't get me wrong).

Or you may want to turn to your favourite modern online clothing sites to find vintage appropriate pieces. In either case, there are things that can help make finding period appropriate garments easier.

For starters, there are certain garments that, while they may have changed a bit over the years as styles have involved, remain absolutely true classics. It is wise, no matter the era(s) you enjoy wearing most, to build your wardrobe, at least in part, around these kinds of basics. While by no means a complete list, some pieces that are often viewed as timeless wardrobe staples are as follows:

{Apt. 9 Essential Solid Blouse in white, $24.99, from Kohl’s.}

-Well tailored button front blouses (often in white, neutrals and various solid hues hues). Look for blouses that are either extremely basic and timeless in their design (like the example above) or which include vintage-y details, such as peter pan collars, interesting sleeve details, bows or ruffles.

{Rachel Zoe Tie-Neck Blouse, $103.00, Neiman Marcus.}

-Tie neck (aka, pussy bow) blouses. A look standing classic amongst stylish lasses, this beloved style of blouse can work for looks from many decades, assuming you find one in a cut, colour, fabric and pattern (if applicable) that calls to mind the era you’re dressing in the style of.

{Fly and By Cardigan, $57.99, ModCloth.}

-Lightweight knits, including cardigans and sweaters (for more on the subject of lightweight knits, and plenty of examples - both vintage and vintage appropriate - of them, be sure to check out this post I wrote about them back in 2009).

{Satin Open Front Shrug, $59.95, Le Chateau.}

-Shrugs and bolero jackets. Look for styles that channel a mid-century vibe in knits, satin, silk, cotton, and tweed.

{Viola, Senorita Skirt, $74.99, ModCloth.}

-Pencil skirts  in a solid colours (black, brown, navy, and grey in particular are excellent options as they can easily be paired with vintage blazers/jackets for a suit look or worn with tops, blouses, sweaters, and cardigans on their own), in lengths that hit at or anywhere below the knee.

{Alfani Belted A-Line Skirt, $73.00, Macy’s.}

-A-line Skirts (same general criteria as for pencil skirts)

{High Waisted Thrills Skirt, $49.00, Plasticland.}

-Circle Skirts (again, same general criteria as for a-line and pencil skirts).

{Classic Shirtdress, $99.99, J. Crew.}

-Shirtwaist dresses. Look for styles that hit just below the knee or longer, with crisp collars and classic detailing.

{MICHAEL Michael Kors Peplum Peasant Blouse, $54.00, Nordstrom.}

-Peasant style tops (all the better if it’s at least semi-fitted, though a bit of blousing is often part and parcel with this charming style of top).

{Ralph Lauren Cotton Twill Sailor Pants, (currently on sale for) $29.84, Lord & Taylor.}

-High-waisted trousers and jeans (prior to the 1960s, it was uncommon for women's pants, jeans or shorts to hit below the navel).

{Foxfield tweed jacket, $129.99, Coldwater Creek.}

-Tweed blazers, jackets and coats in classic weaves and neutral hues (tweed jackets look so smart with with vintage skirts for the colder months).

{Prim the Know Coat, $109.99, ModCloth.}

-Timelessly tailored winter coats in fabrics such as wool, felt, cashmere, Persian lamb, and camel hair.

{DKNY Diamond Stitch Double Breasted Trench, $143.00, Zappos.}

-Classic (belted) trench coats (camel, beige, and black are good colour choices).

{Black Calfskin Belt with Antiqued Brass Hardware, $48.00, Brooks Brothers.}

-Black and neutral hued belts (often) with understated buckles and detailing.

{Black Patent Bowling Bag Purse, $69.99, Mango.}

-A small to medium sized leather, patent leather, faux leather, vinyl, silk, or sturdy cotton handbag in black, brown, camel, navy, grey, or another dark neutral (burgundy and hunter/pine green can both be surprisingly versatile shades) with minimal hardware and very classic lines.

{Black cashmere-Lined Lambskin Gloves, $138.00, Brooks Brothers.}

-Solid coloured, classically tailored leather (or faux leather) gloves.

{17” 8mm Glass Pearl Necklace with Deco Clasp, $198.00, Brooks Brothers.}

-Single stands of pearls, pearl bracelets, and pearl stud earrings. Pearls exude elegance and beauty, and are as timeless – and vintage appropriate – as the sky is blue.

{Eastland Classic II Penny Loafer Shoes, $53.00, Sierra Trading Post.}

-Brown or black penny loafers.

{Frye Delia Saddle Shoes, $110.99, Zappos.}

-Traditionally styled saddle shoes and buck shoes.

{Nine West Ambitious black pumps, $68.95, Zappos.}

-Basic pumps (court shoes) in black, navy, white, brown, red, and other versatile colours (or for an extra jolt of alluring style, opt for leopard print).

{4 inch leopard print peep toe heels, $45.97, Amazon.}

-Peep-toe heels (all the cuter if they have bows or rosettes on the vamp).


Now, of course there are examples of all of these garments that work better for certain decades than others (and, by the same token, versions that are wholeheartedly modern to the point where they really couldn't be styled so as to look like a piece from an early era), but as a general rule, these are amongst the most timeless pieces any woman can have in her vintage appropriate wardrobe.


Things to keep in mind when shopping for vintage appropriate fashions

When looking at a modern piece and trying to size up if it's going to work with your vintage wardrobe, here are some things that you’ll want to keep at the forefront of your mind.


-Fabric: What material is the garment made out of? Is the material one that would have been around during the decade you love or which looks very much like it could have been? Is the pattern and/or colour appropriate for your time frame of choice? Is the weight of the garment in keeping with the period? Are there any embellishments (buttons, zippers, frogs, sequins, beading, embroidery, ties, etc) on the material/garment and if so, do they lend to, or detract from, the vintage feel of the piece?


-Colour: Though it's easy to think back to the past and see the world through largely a black and white lens, the reality is that many vintage garments were loaded with colours of all types, from whisper soft pastels to blazing bright, and everything in between. Though you'd not likely have found a highlighter yellow flapper's dress, you could have encountered one in rust, jade green, crimson, teal, or silver, for example.

Certain colours are generally associated with each decade, and as your knowledge of your favourite eras deepens, you'll soon come to recognize the hues that really tie into your decade of choice.

Though there's definitely some wiggle room when it comes to colours, generally speaking, the more you opt for colours that were appropriate (or best suited to) a certain period, the more likely a garment or accessory may be to have a wonderful vintage appropriate feel to it. One great way to quickly get a feel for the colours that were worn during a certain time frame is to look at old (colour) catalogs and magazines from that time, as well as colour movies (if applicable).



-Lines: Whether from memory or while looking at images from that era (or your favourite bloggers wearing their vintage threads from that time period), look at the lines of a garment and see if the tailoring is similar (or virtually identical, as the case may be) to the decade(s) you're interested in. If it is, this is often a key point in helping to determine if a piece may work for your vintage look.


-Construction: When you look at a piece (or better yet, when possible, hold it in your hands) does it appear (or feel) well made? While shoddy clothes have been around for eons, many vintage pieces, even at lower price points were well made and designed to stand up to years of wear. Check seams, hems, button holes, zippers, and other potentially weak (in terms of construction/risk of damage) points on a piece, even if it's brand new, to make sure that this is a quality garment.


-Overall appearance: There have been times when I've been out shopping and instantly been struck by how very much a modern piece looked like it could have just hopped through the time space continuum and landed here from another era. In fact, I had this happen to me while in a consignment store a couple of months ago with a black dress that, though thoroughly modern, looked incredibly like like many black dresses I've seen over the years from the 1920s.

If a garment strikes you as clearly looking like its from a certain era, that's perhaps the best element to try and find when shopping for modern pieces that have a definite vintage vibe to them. Look at the waistline, sleeve length, hem length, garment construction, embellishments, and material, if these stack up and meet the grade, you likely have a winner on your hands.


-Size: Beyond merely aiming to buy garments that are the right size for your body shape and height, is the the size of the garment in keeping with the proportions that a piece from your decade(s) of choice would have originally have been?

While women sometimes donned men's clothes to intentionally get a baggy look in the 40s and 50s (in particular), often times ladieswear was form fitting and meant to hit at certain spots on the body. Slouchy, excessively baggy, overly tight, hugely oversized, or strangled portioned (e.g., the high front, low back skirts that were all the range last year) pieces are not very likely to look vintage appropriate (with the exception of a few garments, such as swing coats, that are supposed are supposed to fit large and loose).


-Length: Much like size, length is another important factor when it comes to your vintage appropriate garments. With exceptions made for shorts, beach wear, and certain 20s dresses, few skirts and dresses prior to the 1960s hit above a woman's knees. Look at the length and proportions of a garment and ask yourself, objectively, if it really does look like it could have just hopped out of the 30s, 40s, or 50s.

If the answer is "no", this may not be a deal breaker, but you have to think, right then and there, about if there's anyway it can still work. Sometimes alteration can help, other times all a piece may need is to be tucked in (for example, longer shirts and sweaters tucked into high-waisted jeans and trousers often lend them a wonderful 1940s feel), and others still you may have to pass, because length (and heel height, while we're on the subject of length) can easily make or break the vintage appropriate-ness of a garment.


-Alteration-ability: Not a real word, I know, but a real concept for sure. By alteration-ability, I mean, if you look at a piece and it strikes you as being relatively vintage appropriate, is there anything that can be added, removed, or altered to make it appear even more so?

For example, could the buttons be swapped with vintage or more classically styled ones on a blouse or coat to instantly lend it a great 40s feel, or could you remove the lime green fur collar from a black 1990s winter coat to make it seem more like a classic 30s winter topper? If this kind of alteration is something you can do yourself or can afford to have done professionally, then it may be worth getting the garment and having it altered.


-Layer-ability: Again, a homemade term, with practical real world application. Sometimes you'll find a piece that is vintage looking in some respects, but not so much in others. Case in point, certain camisoles, blouses, and dresses. In such instances, clever layering may be all it needs to help a modern piece suddenly look like it hopped out of the tumultuous thirties or fabulous fifties.

Look for necklines, cuffs, collars, and hems with vintage appeal and see if layering a vintage (or vintage appropriate) piece (or pieces) over the not-so-vintage parts of a garment helps it to take on an old school appeal. If a piece is well priced and is able to do so, it may be worth picking up, especially for the colder months when layers are often a must.


Sourcing vintage appropriate modern pieces

I've said it before, but I'll say it again, no matter where I go, I always (always!) keep my eyes peeled for vintage appropriate fashions. While certain stores and locations (e.g., yard sales and flea markets) will obviously lend themselves more to finding such pieces, anywhere that sells clothing has the potential to offer up a piece that may work for you.

I've found 50s looking sweaters in the clothing section at grocery stores, 40s appropriate skirts in trendy teenybopper shops, shrug sweaters in avant garde modern boutiques, lucite/Bakelite looking plastic bangles at the dollar store, and rayon scarves that look like they could have been made seventy years ago at the local drug store.

Train your eye to constantly scan your surroundings and to look for tell-tale signs (certain colours, lines, hem lengths, fabrics, etc) of a piece that will work for your wardrobe.

Odd as it may sound in relationship to vintage clothing, it can also help to keep an eye on modern trends. Fashion is incredibly cyclical and designers often look to the past for inspiration when crafting their present day collections. Though most of-the-moment pieces will likely not work that well for mid-century looks, there’s usually at least one trend each season that pulls so heavily from the past (case in point, the resurgence of peplums this year) that may suddenly provide you with a wealth of garments that could work for your vintage look.

You don't need to buy new to get a vintage look either, be sure to check out local thrift, charity, second hand, and consignment stores, as well as yard sales, flea markets, rummage sales, swap meets, auctions, and estate sales for modern pieces that channel the era you're after. By the same token, falling somewhere between vintage and modern, are pieces from more recent decades (the 1970s-2000s) which may have the look of the era your after.

When shopping online, such garments are sometimes listed with titles such as "1980s does 1940s black cocktail dress" or "1970s does 1930s wide brimmed hat". These pieces can often provide a more budget-friendly version of garments from your favourite decade for a fraction of the cost of an actual (earlier) vintage piece.

Online shopping is a great way to find vintage appropriate clothing (as well, of course, of vintage reproduction clothes, too), as there are literally thousands of online clothing sellers around the world.

Some of my favourite sources (be it for visual inspiration and/or actual purchasing) for vintage appropriate pieces are the fifteen that follow (as well as the others mentioned in the wardrobe basics examples earlier in this post):


-American Eagle Outfitters

-Anthropologie

-Banana Republic

-Brooks Brothers

-Cath Kidston

-Coldwater Creak

-Forever 21 (yes, you have to weed through tones of modern/trendy pieces, but whether online or in person, I almost always find at least one great vintage appropriate piece when I shop at Forever 21)

-H&M

-ModCloth

-Old Navy (I've gotten a lot of great thin knits, such as the cardigan I'm wearing here, from Old Navy over the years)

-Plasticland

-Ralph Lauren

-Reitmans

-Sears (I've found some really nice vintage appropriate blouses, sweaters, cardigans, and shoes there over the years)

-Talbots

-Target


That little something extra

Earlier in this post we talked about altering and/or layering a modern piece to give it more of a vintage feel, by the same token you can sometimes use accessories to inject more of a period appropriate quality to a garment. Some examples that can help in this regard are vintage jewelry and hats, classic belts, vintage scarves, detachable collars and/or cuffs, lady ties (such as those sold by etsy seller Flapper Girl), vintage or vintage appropriate shoes, and classic coats.

However, just as the old expression states that you can't get blood from a stone, so too are there times when, no matter how much you like a garment, accessory or pair of shoes, if you have to face the fact that it's not going to work for your chosen decade.

Of course you can still buy it to wear at other times, if you'd like, but, again, don't try and force a square peg into a round hole. Instead, look at the garment (or accessory) and determine what you like most about it (colour, fabric, pattern, cut, etc) and then see if you can find an actual vintage or other vintage appropriate piece that incorporates that quality, but is more in keeping with the styles of your favourite decade.

Always try to keep in mind that vintage styling isn't just about the clothes, important and integral as they are to any period appropriate look. If you're aiming to really recreate the exact styles of a certain decade, it helps a great deal to ensure that your hair and make-up (as well as your accessories and shoes) are in keeping with those styles that were in use at time.

One could argue that this rings even more true if you're using modern pieces to appropriate a vintage outfit, instead of sporting actual vintage garments. In either case though, hair and make-up can go a long way towards helping you create the fabulous yesteryear look you're after.


What it all boils down to

Though I know that some vintage clothing fans out there only wear genuine vintage pieces, I'd venture to say that a good percentage of us incorporate some combination of reproduction, handmade, and/or vintage appropriate pieces into our wardrobes in conjunction with our vintage garments. Those just starting out in the vintage fashion world, may even be basing their whole old school inspired wardrobe on such pieces.

As the years roll on and vintage prices most likely continue to rise, while at the same time the available amount of vintage clothing dwindles, likely more and more of us will turn to (or continue to buy) modern pieces that we can convincingly put to use in our everyday wardrobes.

Knowledge of the decades you enjoy wearing most, common sense, and the tips in this post should help steer you in the right direction when it comes to, as Dolly asked, shopping for modern clothes that you can effectively, beautifully use in your day-to-day vintage looks.

Have fun, enjoy shopping online and off, and feel free to share snaps here anytime you put together a great vintage appropriate outfit.