Choosing and Using Free Vintage Hat Patterns

For today's guest post (while Tony and I continue our exciting holiday to Edmonton), I'm sincerely honoured to have none other than my good friend Tanith Rowan - whose incredible millinery work you may remember from such CV posts as this & this - sharing some of her vast, inspiring knowledge on how to select and use free vintage hat patterns with all of you.

Even if you're not a sewer, if - like me - you go weak in the knees for old school chapeaus, chances are this delightful guest post (which I want to sincerely thank Tanith - be sure to swing by her beautiful Etsy shop - for writing) will be right up your alley.

 
Vintage magazines and newspapers are one of my favourite places to find inspiration and information, and I love researching hats this way. While doing so, I was stumbling on the occasional free hat pattern, and I was keen to try them out.

After my first attempt went quite well, I wanted to do more, and started a project to make and review the free patterns I found on Trove, the online database of the National Library of Australia. So far I have completed six hats and am working on my seventh right now. It hasn't been easy, (in fact, it has been extremely frustrating at times!) but I'm getting better at working through the maze of brief and vague instructions, pattern drafting and mysterious terminology.

So what have I learned about using free vintage hat patterns? Below are some tips for working through each stage of the process, but overall I've found that the most important things are to be willing to experiment and to trust your common sense and experience.

(1939 Doll's Hat )

 

Finding and selecting your pattern

I have been specifically searching one online archive database but there are many other places to look. Using a search engine may turn up some good results but it can sometimes be hard to narrow the search to what you want. Searching on Pinterest is often good, because it is a place where people often share free pattern resources, and you may find people have boards specifically for free vintage patterns or even free hat patterns.

The best terms to search for will depend on where you are searching. If you are using Pinterest, for example, the pinner will often have used descriptive terms for the pin or the board, so searching for “free vintage hat pattern” will get you somewhere, and modern terms like “DIY” and “tutorial” will yield results too.

When searching a database, the terms that come up will be those from the original article, so although “pattern” is still good, also consider “instructions” “directions” “how to” “make at home” “make this hat” and so on. Once I started to find patterns, I looked at what expressions they were using in the title and text, and added those to my list of search terms.

If you already know what era you are looking for, use this information to guide your search. You can include the decade when using a search engine or Pinterest (although keep in mind not everyone knows what they are talking about), and a database may have an advanced search option to narrow down the results to a specific date range.

With a style in mind, try searching for that too, and try multiple options if the style has a few names it might be known by.

(1949 Pixie Hat)

When choosing a pattern to try, keep in mind where and how you will wear the hat, and with what (unless, like me, you are making hats for the fun of it and as a learning experience). Some of the hats you will find are distinctly dressy, others more casual, some very wearable with modern clothes, other distinctly “vintage”.

The reality is, that I wouldn't wear many of these hats myself, and maybe that is true for you too, so be critical and sensible about your style and wardrobe needs. I adored the 1949 pixie hat, but I honestly wouldn't wear it as is. I'm still working on tweaks for that pattern, but one thing I did was scale it down – it makes an adorable toddler hat!

Also look at the images critically. How accurate is that illustration likely to be? How much of the appeal of the photo is in the styling and how much is the hat itself? How will it look with your hair and make-up (or not) and outfits? The 1954 scarf hat really has nothing going for it without the whole look being in place, and the illustration for the 1934 “Vagabond Beret” had an illustration that led a lot of people to think it would look completely different!

(1949 Pixie Hat for a toddler)

Drafting Patterns

One of the more frustrating parts! Many will be on a grid for you to enlarge, which is slow but at least allows accuracy. If you don't care to draw up a 1-inch grid, you can find and download 1-inch grid paper online and print it out. Just make sure they print at the true size. I usually start drawing with the key points and straight lines, then draw in the curves.

They are often hand drawn in the original diagram and rarely symmetrical, even if they probably should be! You can choose to fix these things up if it matters to you. It bothered me a lot when I started and now I'm embracing asymmetry a bit more.

Without a grid, you may need to use a bit of mathematics. If that isn't your strong suit – just ask for help! A bit of knowledge about the measurements of circles will go a long way. Hopefully all the necessary measurements are given, but you may sometimes not have every detail and just have to do your best to make it look like the original! As I said, it's frustrating.

(1954 Scarf Hat)

You may need to adjust the size. For the 1954 scarf hat, I ended up making three versions because it was so small, and then I just assumed my changes would be enough. It would have been worth doing a bit more checking on the pattern before continuing.

One way to do this, which I tried with the 1934 “Vagabond Beret” to save myself heartache, is to draw the stitching lines on to your pattern, I.e. measure the seam allowance in from each edge (and now is a good time to mention that they rarely tell you what seam allowance, if any, is included).

Measure the head-size part of the stitching line and compare it to your head measurement, remembering to include some ease (approximately 1 cm should be sufficient) and to measure your head where the hat will actually sit.

(1934 Vagabond Beret)

Modern vs Vintage Materials

Luckily a lot of the hat patterns available will be for sewn fabric hats, and although they might use unusual fabrics, you can usually look them up online and find out what type of modern fabric is equivalent.

One thing that often comes up is sparterie or esparterie, which is a stiff foundation material traditionally made from willow. There are modern versions of sparterie being made, but I haven't personally used them, and I generally substitute millinery buckram instead. If you aren't sure what to use, try something and see!

The earlier the pattern, the more likely it is to use materials that are unusual and unknown to most of us now. Earlier patterns also seem to be the least detailed and make the most assumptions about your skills and knowledge of millinery and sewing in general. I generally find that patterns from the 1940s onwards make a lot of sense to me, but sometimes I can't make head or tail of earlier ones.

(The 1953 Scarf Hat almost beat me)

Construction

Be ready to use some trial-and-error!
 
Vintage patterns, especially those squeezing into a small space in a magazine, are not going to give you a lot of detail. If, like me, you are used to working with modern patterns that spell everything out, an instruction that simply says “join brim to crown”, might be intimidating. This is common, and even more so for attaching trims. The instructions often finish with fabulous sentences like “Trim with veil and a feather.”

But you know what? It's because it doesn't really matter how you do it. I'm definitely someone who wants to know the “right way”, but the right way is the one that you like, that works, and that is neat enough to meet your own standards.

(1953 Scarf Hat)

Read everything through before you start. Firstly, it will prepare you for those vague instructions and secondly it will help you make a good fabric choice. In the 1949 pixie hat pattern, for example, the fabric for the brim had to have some stretch or give, because the construction process involved stretching it over the buckram brim to fit. I had to start again on that one because I didn't check that detail and my fabric wasn't able to stretch.

Be prepared to make a first test version, especially if you want to use an expensive fabric. The size of a hat doesn't have to be far off before fit is a problem, and with vague instructions, it is all too easy to make a mistake.

Remember to trust your common sense and your own judgement. When in doubt about what you are supposed to be doing, keep the end goal in mind, keep looking at the pictures and nudge things in that direction when necessary!

Have patience, and if needs be, throw it across the room and leave it there for a week.

(1954 Butterfly Cap)

I hope I haven't made it sound like a dreadful task that no one should attempt.

Despite the difficulties, there are some great patterns out there and working them out is an adventure with big rewards.

♥ Tanith

15 photos of real world vintage ladies wearing beautiful hats

Spring is well underway around these parts and I couldn't be happier about that fact. Even though, objectively, this winter was a fairly mild one (especially from early February onward), it felt like it went on for decades and I was quite excited to wave buh-bye to to the coldest chapter of the year.

The temps hadn't even hit double digits yet before my sundresses were rotated to the front of my closet and I was giving all of my summer hats and bags a once over to make sure that they didn't need any repairs before kicking off their time to shine once more.

As most of you know, I'm one of those folks who can never get enough of vintage hats. They're the one of my favourite items of clothing to wear and collect alike. Though I don't find too many around these parts any more, whether close to home, when I travel, or (occasionally, given the steep shipping costs on such) online, I'm always on the prowl for my next exciting old school topper and rarely go more than a few months without adding at least one new hat to my closet.

Hats are fantastic accessories. They can be expressive, bold, subtle, small, huge, lightweight, hefty, decorative, understated, one-of-a-kind, perpetual favourites (berets, for example), charming, chic, beautiful, exciting and at least a million other exciting things.

I've had a passion for them my whole life and have worn vintage examples frequently since my teen years (indeed, they were some of the first mid-century items I ever thrifted, back when finding them at thrift stores wasn't rarer than stumbling upon a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow).

These days my collection now numbers over 50 hats and shows no signs of slowing down (though I do keep reminding myself that I should prune through them at some point and sell or giveaway a tiny number that I don't wear very often; most however do see a lot of wardrobe action, so they're definitely staying put!).

Women (and men) the world over used to delight in the act of buying a new hat and doing so was frequently referenced in popular culture up until (at least) the 1960s. I will forever feel like we lost something great and gorgeous alike when most folks stopped wearing hats on a frequent basis, and love that many of us in the vintage/rockabilly/pinup world still keep this time honoured art alive.

With spring out in full force and my lighter, more seasonally appropriate hats (very much including all of my straw ones) making an appearance again, I thought it would be a lot of fun to kick off this week by sharing some wonderful photos that I've come across online lately of real world women from the mid-twentieth century wearing stunning vintage chapeaus.

While not all of these fifteen examples are strictly spring/summer related, they are each spectacular and can provide so much styling (and shopping/wishlist!) inspiring when it comes to how to successfully sport old school toppers in the scope of today's vintage looks that I felt it was a-okay to include them here, too.

Scroll on to soak up the vintage hat awesomeness, after which, I'm sure that like me, you'll be wishing for a time machine and a charge account at a mid-century milliner's shop even more than ever before! :)

15 photos of real world 

vintage ladies 

wearing beautiful hats

1. Lofty turban ruching over a hat form with long tendrils of millinery greenery jutting out of the back? Yes, pretty, pretty please! Here lace collar is really charming, too!




2. Though somewhat casual on the chapeau front of the day, each of these hats adds so much to their lovely wearer's ensembles, which would, at the time, have seemed at least a bit out of place without them. Plus extra styling points for the nearly identical belts.




3. Whimsical hats turn my knees to jelly and this double bow "antenna" style is doing just that big time! (While also reminding me of a similar vintage bow hat that I have and wear often.) Her companion's classic turban is pretty terrific, too - and can we take a moment to lose our heads over all of those fab bags!!!




4. A trio of gorgeous springtime perfect hats adorn the heads of these lovely ladies as they enjoy a Woman's Club Tea event while decked out in equally attractive printed daydresses.




5. Generously sized curving feathers that encircle the (front) brim of a hat are one of my favourite styles (see this example from my wardrobe, for example) and when they're partnered with a classic skirt suit like this you'd be hard pressed to find a more elegant 1940s daytime look (plus, how much do you love that she kept her gloves on even while touching up her lipstick - such a classy move!).




6. Let's all take a moment to appreciate the sharp styling of this well accessorized 1940s outfit and hat alike. This look would be great with almost any vintage hat of the era, but with this mile high topper it becomes a thing of Vogue magazine worthy brilliance.




7. Captured at a day out to Knott's Berry Farm, this charming 1940s group photo highlights a slew of beautiful hat, hairstyles and dresses alike.




8. Tipples, chic outfits (love the polka dots!), and good sized hats make for an extra fun night for these two stylish Australian gals.




9. Two beautiful ladies (seriously, they look like they could have just left a Hollywood movie set!) rock lush flower adorned hats on what appears like it could have easily been a sunny spring day, given that they've opted to remove their coats as they beam for the camera.




10. I feel like I need every awesome element of her plaid + brown hued ensemble in my life (and closet) right now, most definitely including that fantastic feather and netting bedecked felt hat.




11. Fab floral print dress? Check! Matching scarf/snood worn over one's head? Check! A killer handbag and pair of shoes? Check! Top it all off with a jaunty little nautical-esaue tilt hat? Check. It's outfits like this that make me love vintage fashion to the immeasurable degree that do.




12. A beautiful young woman posses with a girl that, I can only assume given how similar they look, is her sister, on the little girl's Communion Day, while rocking an awesome ruffled hat. I'd love to find something with a similar wreath of ruffles for my own hat collection.




13. I think that we can collectively agree that her ensemble - that mile-high hat very much included - is off-the-charts incredible! (It was worn for a fashion show in 1946.)




14. Stitched brimmed hats are the bee's knees - as are both of their fantastic dresses. I really like the look of a wide brimmed hat and a fitted, classic 40s frock like the example shown here.




15. This beautiful 1930s photo should be placed alongside definition of the word "elegance" in dictionaries the world over.

{To learn more about a specific image used in this post, please click on it to be taken to its respective source.}

♥ ♥ ♥

Over the years I've found, based on comments and emails that I've received on such topics, that the two areas of vintage fashion that the largest number of people seem to be leery of experimenting with are gloves and hats.

I get that big time on both counts. These accessories, especially outside of a utilitarian setting (baseball hat, snow mitts, etc), are not ones that most people sport anymore and they instantly stick out to all who see you as very distinct signs that you've consciously opted to dress differently than the mainstream twenty-first century norm (which, BTW, I commend you for!).

However, ultimately, hats are just like any other garment or accessory. The ability to wear them lies in your own confidence and how they make you feel when they're on your head. In all the years I've been capping off my looks (see what I did there?) with vintage hats, I honestly cannot remember ever once having received a negative comment about my choice of headgear and even if I had (or one day do), it won't phase me at all.

I feel sorry for those who don't know the joy first hand of wearing (let alone shopping for) a fabulous hat and how doing so seems to instill more confidence in you the moment you slip a killer chapeau on.

I hope that you'll follow both my lead, as well as that of all of these super chic yesteryear fashionistas, this spring and summer by giving your toppers plenty of outfit exposure, whether you're new to the world of vintage hats or have been delighting in them for ages now.

Here's to a joyful sunny season topped off, quite literally, with one fabulous vintage hat after another!

The beautiful 1980s does 1940s dress from Jenstyle Chic Vintage that helped create a subtly Edwardian feeling ensemble

Outfit details

1930s feather adorned black velvet hat: eBay
Edwardian inspired earrings: Dollar Store in Kelowna
1980s does 1940s purple floral print dress: etsy seller Jenstyle Chic Vintage
Grey 1940s princess coat: Couture Allure
Vintage black velvet handbag: Thrifted (from Value Village)
Dark green c. 1950s gloves: Thrifted (from Value Village)
Black plastic rose bead stretch bracelet: Thrifted (from Value Village)
Black seamed nude stockings: eBay
Black faux suede round toe pumps: Wal-Mart
Lip colour: MAC Diva
Nail colour: Revlon Plum Attraction


Photography by Tony Cangiano

♥ ♥ ♥

How's that for a detailed title? Lengthy as it may be, it's an accurate one because that is precisely what this timelessly lovely floral print frock featuring shades dark purple, black, blue and green did. Hailing from one of Chronically Vintage's most recent blog sponsors, wonderful etsy shop Jenstyle Chic Vintage, this dress is one of those distinctly lovely pieces that is apt to catch the eye of those with a passion for multiple decades in time.

It is, like numerous beloved dresses in my closet, a piece that hails from the 1980s yet distinctly channels the spirit of the 1940s. And yet, there's more to this time frame chameleon, too. Subtle elements that speak of other decades as well. The double pleated detail directly below the collar, for example has a charming 1920s feel, and the somewhat blouse-y sleeves (as well as the wee little black velvet purse) call to mind the fabulously fashionable Edwardian era.

This decade jumps out all the more here when the dress waltzes with the splendid 1930s feather adored velvet hat (that could easily pass for an Edwardian chapeau) and a perpetually feminine grey 1940s princess coat - my favourite winter wear style of all time. The t-strap heels, naturally, call to mind the 20s and 30s, but are a truly classic style that has come into play during every decade from the 1920s right on to today.

So struck was I by the notes of earlier decades in this ensemble in fact, that for the first time ever, while editing these photos (as mentioned in this post last fall, Tony takes all of my photos, then I in turn happily do the post-processing/editing work with them) I finally took the plunge and converted some of them to black and white. It's a something I've been wanting to do for quite some time, but always felt compelled to wait for the right outfit to partner with this most vintage of photography palettes. I knew the moment I saw these photos, this was the one. Viewed in black and white, I cannot help but even feel a little bit like I've gone back in time entirely.

In many many ways this outfit is a lot like not only my wardrobe as a whole and my personal approach to wearing vintage (influenced as it is by a deeply rooted love of multiple eras), but like the etsy shop that the dress itself hails from.

Helmed by a lovely lady named - as you may have guess from her shop's moniker - Jen who spends her days as a teacher and librarian, and her evenings as an online vintage seller, Jenstyle Chic Vintage brings shoppers a diverse blend of fashions (both men's and women's, as well as a selection for children), jewelry, accessories and other assorted yesteryear goodies that span the spectrum of several decades.

Brought to life by Jen's longstanding love of the past, which stretches back to a childhood that was peppered with trips to antique stores with her parents (both yesteryear fans and collectors themselves) and other powerfully influential early experiences with history, her etsy shop is a companion to a 1967 Fan trailer that transformed into a traveling vintage shop from which she hosts pop up vintage shops in various parts of the US.

Jennifer Lorenz's passion for vintage, history, and bringing her customers fantastic pieces at reasonable prices is clear the moment you visit her etsy shop, and I'm thrilled to welcome this delightful lady (for more on Jen, her family and the fact that she believe, just as I do, that she was born with the collector's gene, be sure to check out her splendidly engaging etsy About page, where you'll see - and smile over the fact that - she has dubbed her darling dog Mazie as the shop's curator).

In addition to connecting with Jensyle Vintage Chic on etsy, which houses some seriously cool vintage items such as two gorgeous 1950s Spanish flamenco dance costume dresses, including the vibrant red and white one pictured here below, you can stay abreast of what's going with the shop and in Jen's world on Facebook and Twitter.

{Vintage 1950s White Spanish Flamenco Costume Dress, $78.00.}

Little did we know when Tony and I took these photos last Thursday down at Okanagan Lake here in Penticton that we'd be in for another serious snowfall in the coming days. Though it was mighty nippy and windy that afternoon (so hence the red nose and cheeks in many of these snaps), and some remaining snow from previous falls lingered about here and there, within 24 hours Penticton would once again look like it could have been the landscape needed to paint the perfect Christmas card scene from.

At present, there's several inches of the white stuff piled up everywhere and even the rather gorgeous sunshine we got yesterday isn't enough to chase it off again yet or usher in the first telltale signs of the spring. Those will come in due time, but for now one still needs to hunker down under plenty of toasty layers, like this fabulous forties princess coat, which came into my wardrobe by way of a helpful blog commenter back in 2011.

At the time I posted about how I was on the prowl for a new vintage winter coat (ideally a princess one), as the treasured one that I'd previously been using for many years (since I was 18, to be exact) was beyond on its last legs. A very helpful blog reader spotted one that sounded like what I was after on the terrific vintage seller Couture Allure, and before I knew it, this gorgeous $300 investment piece was winging its way through the mail and into my closet (received as an awesome gift, I should add, from my darling husband).

This is the first time I've featured it in a blog post, but certainly not the first that I've worn it. In fact, about 80% of the time when I wear a dress or skirt during the fall, winter and very early spring, this is the vintage topper that I reach for. It's fabulously warm (its length helps there big time), hugs my curves to no end, and is holding up superbly.

I highly suspect that it will be with me for many more freezing cold Canadian winters to come, just as this beautiful dress from her etsy shop, which I sincerely appreciate that Jen sent me a gift, will be a much loved part of my wardrobe for ages (while also happening to be a stellar start to this year's plan to add more purple to my wardrobe).

I look at this outfit and I smile. Yes, the forties jump out at me when I view it, but there are elements of various other decades to, as I mentioned above, that all work in harmony though the colour palette, lines, choice of accessories and coat, and the prevailing sense of femininity that swirl though it. This look, comprised of stylish components of, and items dating from, numerous decades is me to a tee and is a perfect snapshot, quite literally, of what my personal vintage style is all about.


*PS* Jenstyle Chic Vintage is very generously offering Chronically Vintage readers the chance to save 25% off on all purchases (with no minimum order required) at their etsy shop when you use coupon code Jessica between now and March 31st, 2014.

12 vintage Marie Claire covers featuring fabulous hats

Though I joyfully wear vintage hats all year round, there is something about the unmistakable return of winter's first chill that tends to come part and parcel with November, which always puts me in the mood to shop for (even if that means just window shopping) yesteryear chapeaus.

Far more than just a wonderful fashion statement and accent (if not full-fledged focal point) to our daily vintage outfits, hats really come into their element as the mercury drops and once more they provide not just chic style, but physical warmth for heads and/or ears (depending on what style of hat you're sporting).

For those who live in colder climates, you may find yourself especially drawn to vintage hats made from materials such as felt, fur (real or faux), feathers, wool (including Persian lamb's wool, which is usually seen as being more of a fur), and thick, tightly woven straws (that lets to no air flow throw), as these are typically thicker and/or better at providing your lovely noggin with plenty of much needed warmth as Old Man Winter comes calling once more.

Just as certain materials find their way more into fall and winter hats, so too does the colour palette often shift. Out are the light straws, pastels, flower bedecked Easter bonnet styles, jaunty boater hats (traditionally, for chaps at least, they rarely stayed in rotation past Labour Day), and cute little half hats that look more like headbands than protection against the chilly elements. In come dark hues such as navy blue, black, camel, brown, forest green, burgundy, garnet, aborigine, grey, and wintry creams in substantial, head enshrining styles.

Though I do find myself reaching more for hats in such hues and materials as the seasons shift yet again, ultimately there aren't too many of my toppers that I won't at least try to weave into a winter ensemble (case in point my endlessly beloved dusty rose 1940s tilt hat - a hat some might see as being more in keeping with spring and summer - worn with black velvet and tights last February on a very snowy day). This same principle rings true across my wardrobe as a whole (that is to say, I rarely relegate pieces to just one half of the year), so it's no surprise that I keep sporting some of my more summery hats while silver bells and strings of festive lights pop out again.

Because I've got hats on the brain (even literally, if you think about it! :)) this nippy November morn, I wanted to share a selection of fantastic late 1930s and very early 1940s Marie Claire magazine covers with all of you, which come by way of a great Flickr user named Pilllpat.

Though not all of these hats scream autumn or winter, each is a beautiful, timelessly classic work of military art that would not be too tricky at all to partner with a cold weather ensemble, such a two-piece suit, heavy weight black cocktail dress, or pencil skirt and a thick knit twinset.

{All image via Pilllpat on Flickr.}

♥ ♥ ♥

Ohhhh, my wallet is in serious danger because it's all I can do not to go on the prowl for similar versions of some of these amazing vintage hat gems right this very moment! Good thing (for my wallet, though perhaps not quite as much for my hat collection) that Christmas is around the corner, and I'm already keeping an extra close watch on my spending, so that I can splash out on my loved ones. Still, winter isn't exactly famous for being short here in Canada, and there's always the new year to go hat hunting in!

As the last handful of leaves turns amber or crimson and comes tumbling to the cold, slate hued pavement below, what sorts of hats are you daydreaming about for this fall and winter? Do you have a beloved vintage topper (or ten!) that you reach for each year time and time again as the snow banks grow ever higher (this classic black felt number with two simple coloured bands is one of mine in that department) or are you are currently shopping for some suitable cold weather headgear?

Whatever the case may be (including if you're not much of a chapeau wearer at all, but instead just a devoted admirer), I hope that you enjoyed this selection of great vintage hats, any one of which would still be more than worthy of a magazine cover unto itself still these days!