Embellishing a Hat to Suit Your Style

Hi everyone! My name is Nicole and I run The Artyologist, a blog about vintage, sewing, fashion, lifestyle, and art. I've been following Chronically Vintage for a few years now, so I was thrilled when Jessica asked me to write a guest post for her while she is on holidays (to Edmonton)!

I love vintage style, and have worn it for about five years now. However, I have a confession: I don't own many real vintage garments! I mostly rely on what I can alter or make myself, adding in accessories to get a vintage-style look.

Many of my "vintage" garments are actually ones that I have sewn myself, or are thrift store finds that I have changed up in some way in order to look vintage, whether that means adding embellishments, changing buttons, hemming to a better length or altering to fit.

The sad, but true, reality of vintage is that there is a finite amount of it left in the world. Does this mean that those who can't afford or find true vintage have to miss out on this wonderful fashion style, though?

No way! Just as with any other trend or style, as in centuries past, women have made for themselves what they couldn't afford or find, and in my wardrobe, I live by this principle today too, "vintageifying" things so they fit my style.

Hats are great accessories for really pulling an outfit together, but sometimes it can be hard to find good hats that are not in disrepair (shattered veils, in-washable stains, moth holes...) and putting together a hat collection, when a hat that is in good shape costs a lot, is just not feasible for many of us vintage lovers.

This is why, in recent months, I have turned to refashioning hats: so I can get that vintage look, without spending a lot. (And it is also why I am seriously regretting getting rid of those hats I didn't like, instead of altering them! Save yourself- don't do that!)

I picked up this little black hat for a song, earlier this spring, from an antique store, along with a couple other hats that really needed some help. I remember seeing this hat a few years ago in West Edmonton Mall (I recognized the label) so I know that this hat is not actually vintage.

When I saw it new, a few years ago, I thought the embellishment on it was soooo boring, that I passed on it, thinking that, although it would be a good starting point for a refashioned hat, the price wasn't worth it.

However, when I saw it for sale second hand, in good condition and at a much better price point than it was new, I picked it up thinking, like Lydia from Pride and Prejudice, "Look here, I have bought this bonnet. I do not think it is very pretty; but I thought I might as well buy it as not. I shall pull it to pieces as soon as I get home, and see if I can make it up any better."

Soon after buying this hat, I came across this image from Philip Treacy's Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, and fell in love with it. (In case you are wondering who Philip Treacy is, he is a UK milliner who designs hats for the Royal Family.)

Go and look at his hats- they are jaw droppingly gorgeous!  ) I absolutely love this hat: it is so outrageous and over the top, and really what's not to love about mint?

As soon as I saw it, I started thinking about how I could make something similar, and I decided that a large flower on my black hat would be just the thing. So, here is how I created the flower, and how I styled the finished hat for a 1940's look.

I decided to make the flower out of chiffon, as we happened to have scads of it left over from a past project. You could use stiffer organza too- which would give you a rounder pompom shape, or tulle or netting, which would be softer. I cut out a ton of circles, 5 inches in diameter.

You will need 30-50 circles depending on the material and stiffness, and how full you want the flower to be. Don't worry about being too precise, as the edges will be melted and the pieces will be gathered for the final flower. And definitely do cut your circles through several layers at once, to save yourself time!

I didn't want the fabric to fray to pieces, so I decide to finish the edges by singeing them. Singe the fabric by CAREFULLY holding the material over a candle until the edges start to melt and curl. Be very careful with this! You are literally holding a meltable material over top of a flame!

You will need to hold the fabric about 6 inches away from the flame and slowly dip in and out and across so the heat starts to curl it. You don't need to bring the fabric too close, otherwise the heat will start melting the whole circle, rather than just the edge. (Voice of experience. . . )

Once you have singed the fabric, you will be left with curled lily pad shaped petals. Take a circle and fold it into quarters. Stitch through the corner of the folded piece, catching all 4 layers, and loop to tie a knot so it won't pull through the fabric.

Continue to string together the folded circles using the same method, until the flower is at your desired fullness. Once you get a fuller shape, you can gather some of the centre petals so they are fuller, as the soft fabric likes to "flop".

If your fabric is stiffer you can continue stringing until you get a pompom shape. For mine, with the soft chiffon, I gathered the entire flower together in my hand and stitched through the entire bottom of the flower to give it some shape. Really just play around with the fabric and arrange it into a nice shape.- there isn't really a hard and fast method.

Sew a button, a bead, a stuffed piece of fabric, or really anything in the centre. I did this, because my chiffon was too soft to form a pompom. However, like I said before, if your fabric is stiffer, just keep adding to it and you will get a lovely round shape and won't need a button at all. Also, I ended up switching out to a black button in the end, instead of the silver one pictured.


Sew a little round felt disk to the bottom, to keep the flower in shape. If possible, do not glue the flower onto your hat! I have other hats which have been hot glued, and it is just nasty to try and fix later on. Sew it onto the hat with cotton, or other natural fibre, thread.

Don't use a polyester blend thread, as over time polyester can cut natural fibres, and you will be left with a hat full of holes. You could also add a brooch pin to the flower, instead of sewing it directly to the hat, so it is removable.

And that is it!

This hat was so completely and utterly boring to start with. They really had a good thing going with the veil and the leaves. . . and then it's like they ran out of ideas, so they just plunked a little brooch on top. (At least it was removable so now, not only do I have a hat, I also have a brooch!)

I don't even have a before picture of this hat on my head, because it was severely unflattering. However, the giant pompom like flower in Philip Treacy's hat, is really what this hat was missing.

Mine turned out a lot smaller than I was planning, and less poufy, but I think it totally works for the style of the hat, and I really like it. By simply adding some embellishment, this hat is now completely revitalized and it will be a great addition to my winter wardrobe.

I've paired it here with an 80s does 40s dress, and some retro accessories, which makes it look quite vintage. If I hadn't told you, I bet you wouldn't have known. :)

Well, that's all, and I hope this has inspired you to look at the garments and accessories you have, with an eye towards how to make them work for you.

Maybe it will inspire you to pick up that ugly hat or dress you would usually pass up in the thrift store, and refashion it to become your new favourite piece. Maybe all it needs, like this hat, is a large and obnoxious flower!

♥ Nicole

Say Hello to September with Mid-Century Golden Harvest Pumpkin Pie

After one has been blogging for a number of years, there are certain things that you just naturally assumed you've covered on your site by this point in time. For example, I was shocked to recently discover (unless I've completely forgotten and now cannot find a post about such) the fact that I've never blogged a vintage recipe for a straight up classic pumpkin pie.

Seriously, how that can that be? Back in 2011 I did share a lovely mid-century recipe for Coconut Pumpkin Chiffon Pie (which is off-the-charts tasty!), but again, I can find no concrete evidence that I've shared a more traditional pumpkin pie recipe here.

Given my unending love of both autumn and pumpkin foods, that really is surprising, I know! As they say, no time like the present - and when the present just happens to me my first blog post of September, the month that ushers in fall's return, now seems like a thoroughly good moment to do so.

I know, believe me, I know - many of us are keen to savour these last final days (or weeks, if we're lucky) of summer weather are are still thinking "grill" not "casserole". While I do have one foot planted squarely in that camp for sure, the side of me that waits with boundless enthusiasm for autumn's return is already a.) decorating for the season and b.) gearing up in the kitchen for it.

I'm a huge fan of pie across the board. No matter the season, I'm there with pies aplenty and haven't let not being able to eat gluten (due to celiac disease) stop me from still whipping up plenty of pies the whole 'year round.

As much as there are varieties that make me go weak in the knees during winter, spring and summer, none quite do it for me like autumn's richly fragrant, earthy hued, gorgeously spiced versions - very much including apple, pear, sweet potato, and today's offering, Gold Harvest Pumpkin Pie (which is a classic single crust pumpkin pie with a charming ring of chopped nuts on top).




{Dessert fads may come and go, and plenty of variations exist out there on this dish, but at the end of the day (not to mention the end of the summer!), sometimes you simply can't beat the sublimely tasty treat that is a classic pumpkin pie like this fun 1950s version. Vintage recipe image source. Click here for a larger, easier to read version of this image.}


Growing up my mom made (and still makes to this day) an incredible pumpkin pie - think magazine cover worthy flaky crust, a creamy (but never runny) filling, and just the right amount of sweetness and heady spice. Her version has been the benchmark against which all other pumpkin pies, be they homemade, from a restaurant, or store bought have been judged.

Her classic version dates back to at least her own mom, my maternal grandma and is strikingly similar (minus the ring of chopped nuts) to this wonderful 1950s take on an incredible fall time treat.

We always had airy lashings of whipped cream (usually homemade, not in an aerosol can, though either does the trick fabulously!) and as such, I make a point to ensure that there's plenty on hand when I bake up a pumpkin pie, too, which is a beautiful fall time ritual unto itself for me.

 {1950s Reddi Wip ad image source}

I rarely stop at just one pie, but if that's all that happens in a given autumn, it's frequently for Canadian Thanksgiving in early October or Halloween at the end of the month.

No matter when it appears on the table, you can bet your bottom dollar that it will be there at some point - and unlike with most recipes, I rarely deviate much from the traditional iteration.

Like a great roast turkey - another much adored treat of the season - a marvelous pumpkin pie recipe needs little to enhance it. The combination of a buttery crust, satisfyingly squishy filling, and the unmistakable flavour of pumpkin + cinnamon and nutmeg is culinary perfection in my books.

If you do want to jazz things up a bit though, crumbled pralines in the filling is fabulous, as is a drizzle of caramel, butterscotch, or chocolate sauce on top, and whipped cream (as mentioned above) and vanilla, caramel, toffee crunch, apple, pear, or even pumpkin itself ice cream are delectable partners for this incredibly iconic fall time dessert.

And, as always, if shortening ("Fluffo" brand was used originally here in this recipe) isn't your cup of tea, then certainly feel free to swap in another suitable cooking fat, such as butter or coconut oil, instead.

I know that not everyone is a huge fan of this particular dessert, but if you are, I hope you'll join me in ushering in the return of fall - when it does actually arrive - with a slice of the age old classic that Pumpkin Pie.

{Fall themed 1930s magazine cover image source}

It is to our taste buds, what the spectrum of jewel tone fall autumn leaves is to the eyes - and both are elements of the season that I can never, ever get enough of.

Five of My Top Tips for Packing When Travelling (Plus a Tiny Change to Our Own Vacation Plans)

Truth be told, I didn't know, given all that has been transpiring on this end throughout August, if I'd get time to post more than one this week before we left for our exciting upcoming trip to Edmonton. Luckily however, I was able to carve out time to pen three fun new posts for you, of which this is the second (watch for a yummy - and very classic - autumn recipe post here on the weekend).
 
Next week, while we're away, I have the honour of presenting you with guest posts from three different fellow vintage bloggers (one each from Canada, the UK, and Australia, respectively), and I hope that you'll shower them and their awesome posts with the same sort of kindness and love that you so sweetly bestow upon mine here each week.
 
As blogged about in the announcement post about our trip, we'd initially planned to leave for Alberta on August 31st, however my dear husband got back from a six-day business trip (to Toronto) last Saturday afternoon and the poor thing was beginning to fight the first stages of a rather powerful head and chest cold.
 
We wondered, a bit earlier on in the week, if we'd have to reschedule our trip entirely, but thankfully, Tony is feeling well enough to embark on our trip later today, so that is exactly what we'll be doing.
 
Now, instead of being gone from August 31st - September 10th as initially planned, we've simply moved things up by a day and will be gone from Sept. 1 - 11th.
 
The only other change to our plans is that we're now overnighting in Golden, BC this evening, to help break up the long drive between Penticton and Edmonton for Tony (we'd previously been thinking of staying overnight in Calgary, but now with Tony sick, will be dividing the trip into roughly two equal length drives of some 5.5 - 6 hours apiece between today and tomorrow), while he's still fighting this cold (which - knock every piece of wood in the universe - hasn't jumped ship to me yet).
 
There's almost never a good time to get a cold, but it was especially rotten timing for one to befall Tony so close to our vacation this year. Thankfully though, admirable trooper that he is, Tony is game to carry on and we'll soon be visiting Edmonton, as planned, in no time. I can hardly wait!
 
Over the past few days, I've been packing up a storm for our trip. When traveling by car - especially since we got our first ever SUV last winter and thus have worlds more trunk space than we had in our previous vehicle, which was a sedan - I wouldn't say that I'm the world's lightest packer, but I'm not the most OTT either.
 
Given everything that many of us like to have on hand in to successfully put together dynamic, attractive vintage (or repro, rockabilly, pinup fashion, etc) outfits, it can be hard to condense our closets and dresser drawer contents down into just a suitcase or two (or three!).
 
I enjoy the challenge though and always set aside at least one full day to compose a mini wardrobe on the go.
 
I've been blogging for over seven years now and have had the pleasure of taking a few trips of various durations throughout that time, yet it struck me recently that to date, best I can recall, I haven't shared too many of my tips on packing for when you travel with you guys yet.
 
I'm quite literally gazing across the room at my suitcases, travel makeup case and jewelry roll as we speak, so now seems like the ideal time to do just that.

As such, I'm delighted to present you with a selection of five of my all-time favourite tips for vacation packing (as seen through the eyes of a vintage fashion blogger).





1. Create a mini capsule wardrobe: While this may mean slightly different things for different folks, to me it is the concept of creating a tiny version of my everyday wardrobe and making sure that the vast majority of pieces are colour coordinated/go nicely together.

Whenever I travel, I select a general colour palette for each given trip and then try to focus on packing as many pieces in those hues (and/or ones that will play really, really nicely with them) as possible. This time around, as our trip is happening at the very tail of summer, just as autumn weather and sunlight alike are rounding the bend once more, I opted to focus on a a fall colour palette and primarily packed pieces in shades of medium to dark green, mustard and golden yellows, dark oranges, brown, burgundy, navy blue and dark denim.

These are all colours that I turn to during the fall when at home, and as I know that most (if not all) of the outfit photos we'll take while on our travels will appear on my blog during the autumn months, it makes all the more sense to opt for a seasonal palette that will continue to look right at home clear on through the return of winter weather.

As well, don't be afraid of colour! Travelling is often exciting, upbeat and joyful - why not tuck along a wardrobe that keeps pace with those feelings and that helps to celebrate this special break from the daily grind that you've been able to carve out for yourself!





2. Separates are your friends: Though I always bring at least a couple of dresses with me when we travel (often solid coloured shirtwaist dresses that make for great canvasses to create multiple looks against throughout the duration of a trip), I find that I really, really tend to favour separates.

By ensuring that all - or nearly so - of my garments are colour coordinated (see tip #1 above), this gives me a great deal of flexibility in terms of the number of outfits I can put together and the variety of activities that such can see me through.

For me, separates generally include skirts, pants and/or jeans, tops, blouses, cardigans and/or sweaters, and blazers. I don't wear shorts, but I do sport capris, so if the weather permits, you'll likely find a pair of those thrown into the mix as well.

Even if you don't have every last element of your trip planned out before you leave, chances are you know what your destination(s) will be, the season(s), and can look up the local weather before you arrive, if need be.

Think about these things as you're packing and select items - be their separates or one piece items (dresses, jumpsuits, playsuits, etc) that stand to work really well for the destination(s) you're headed to.

If you're going to be hiking and camping in the Rockies for a week, that's probably not the time for your newly acquired, and very delicate, 1940s rayon swing dress. If, however, you're headed off for ten days of sightseeing and shopping in Paris, France, then you probably don't need to pack your most rugged of clothes and items like true vintage pieces may be even more at home.




3. Lean generously on accessories: This is something I always do when I travel, but all the more so if space is at a premium. Cast your net far and wide when gathering up accessories to bring with you on your travels. I rarely leave home without a selection of handbags, snoods, hats and hair accessories, and always bring jewelry, scarves and (fashion) gloves with me.

Shoes - even fancy ones - are more utilitarian in nature, but there, too, you can sometimes find room for multiple pairs (try placing smaller, such as socks or scarves, items inside of clean shoes to maximize storage space).

I suggest that you try to avoid breaking in any new shoes for the first time on your trip (save perhaps for super comfy sandals, flats or sneakers - but even then, proceed with caution – and some moleskin!) and instead bring a selection of shoes that you not only love and find comfortable, but which coordinate as well as possible with the garments that you've packed (so that, again, you can get as much mileage as possible out of what you've travelling with).

If you're concerned about loss, theft or breakable, opt for cute, fun accessories that you wouldn't be utterly gutted if something were - goodness forbid! - to happen to them.

Such examples might include inexpensive novelty brooches (modern or vintage), strands of plastic or inexpensive cultured pearls, basic hoop in earrings in silver, gold, and/or rose gold; plastic (but not necessarily Bakelite or celluloid) bangle bracelets, inexpensive handbags (straw, raffia, pleather and denim can all be good choices there), and small, understated vintage hats that don't break the bank.

I also like to personally try to coordinate at least a couple (more if possible) of my accessories with my destination. For example, if I'm going to be near the ocean, nautical and marine life related jewelry and accessories are a must. If I'm headed into the mountains, I reach for pieces with pine cones, woodland critters, and faux bois elements - as well as real wood pieces themselves. If you're trucking out to the desert, what about cactus, Wild West, and Southwestern related accessories?

Almost regardless of where you're going on holiday, you can hit upon at least one or two fun accessories that tie into your destination and which can even serve as the jumping off point for a whole outfit - be it likewise themed or not - as well. 



{Please note: The Image source for this vintage photo is a lovely Tumblr blog that may not be safe for work due to the inclusion of some artistic nudity.}


4. Plan at least some of your outfits (from top to bottom) out before you leave: This is one of my favourite elements of getting ready for any trip. I really make a day out of playing dress up in my own closet. I usually crank up some great vintage tunes, light a scent candle, have a tasty snack to hand (to help keep my energy levels up while trying on scads of looks), and make sure that my full length mirror has been freshly Windexed.

If you're creating a mini capsule wardrobe, you don't necessarily need to plan out every last outfit - especially since itinerary plans can change, just as the weather can, too - but it never hurts to have at least some ensembles generally mapped out before you arrive.

If you think you might forget or be too busy in the moment to create a dazzling look on the fly, take cell phone or tablet photos of each outfit that you've mapped out while you're still at home and then just refer back to them once you've reached your destination.

There's nothing wrong, I should mention, of course with bringing along one or more outfits - if space (and weight limits, if that’s a factor) permits - that are standout ensembles, meaning that they may, intentionally, only be worn once. If, for example, you're headed to a formal wedding out of town and have opted to spend another five days there and make a trip of things, you might only need to wear your 1940s suit or 1950s cocktail dress for the wedding itself.

Plus, by planning out some (or all) of your outfits - including outerwear and accessories, if applicable - before you leave, you greatly cut down on the risk of forgetting something important that you'll likely need at your destination.




5. Pack clothes you know and love: Ideally, you want to pack clothing, shoes and accessories, that fit well, are comfortable, that you've worn before (potentially less of an issue with jewelry), and that you genuinely love - or at least really like - and hopefully won't feel self-conscious when wearing.

As well, try to look over each garment you want to bring before you pack it into a suitcase or overnight bag, and make any repairs (such as fallen hems or loose buttons) before you leave. Bring along a small travel sewing kit, too, in case you need to do any mending jobs to your garments while you're on the road.

I strongly believe that the happier you are with your travel wardrobe, the more enjoyable and relaxed just about any trip stands to be.


{To learn more about a specific image used in today's post, please click on it to be taken to its respective online source.}

♥ ♥ ♥

This list is by no means exhaustive. I could - and very well may - write more on the subject as time goes on. These five tips, however, are ones that I put into action each time we travel, be it for just a short jaunt or a longer stay. At a week and a half, I'd call our upcoming journey to Alberta a nice middle ground on the summer vacation timeline scale.
 
Do you have any great travel packing tips that weren't mentioned here that you'd like to share? I'm all ears, if you do! :)
 
Again, my dears, there will be another post coming down the pipeline from me later this week, followed three really delightful guest posts from fellow vintage blogger, and then I'll be back here in no time at all with plenty of fun new posts of my own in just a few days time (spoiler alert, they're going to heavily feature fall + Halloween related topics).
 
In a largely unrelated (to this post) note, I just wanted to mention, for those who may have been following along, that despite the recent return of a very real looming threat, it would appear as of the latest news releases, that Canada Post is not going to be striking this week and that, happily for all involved, a tentative negations have been reached.

I'm thrilled about this, as it means there won't currently be any strike related disruptions to my Etsy shop (which will remain open while we're on holiday; all orders received while we're away will promptly be shipped out within 48 hours of our return).
 
And last, but certainly not least, I wanted to take a moment to thank you all for your fantastic, caring, sweet, and enjoyable blog comments this summer.

I treasure each of you and your visits to my blog, and can hardly wait to chat about our travels (which I'll be posting plenty of snaps of while they're in progress on my Instagram) and to celebrate my absolute favourite season with you again this autumn.